August 2014 Celebrated Living - page 68

THEDETAILS
WineCaskRestaurant
813AnacapaSt.
(805) 966-9463
BellaVista
Four SeasonsResort
TheBiltmoreSanta
Barbara
1260Channel Drive
(805) 969-2261
.com
TheLark
131AnacapaSt.
(805) 284-0370
FROMTOP:
WineCask
caters todinerswith
dishes like seared sea
scallopswithbeet
carpaccio, sweet snap-
pea risotto, tangerine
vinaigretteandmicro
greens (pictured).
SANTABARBARA
is a requisite
stopon thebeautiful drive
along theCentral Coast, not
only for itsSpanisharchi-
tecture, BotanicGardenand
MissionSantaBarbara, but
—especially since the suc-
cessof themovie
Sideways
—also for itswine-trail tours
toestates likeFirestone,
FoxonandFessParker. And
where there iswine, there
are fine restaurants.
Everyone in the city is
thrilledat the reopeningof
thehistoricdistrict’s
WINE
CASK
,which, back in 1981,
epitomized the region’s laid-
back-but-seriousCalifornia
styleof cuisine. Owners
DougMargerumandMitchell
Sjerven sold the restaurant
in2007, butwhen it found-
ered, theybought it back,
bringing theplaceup to
contemporary snuff aspart
ofwhat they call the “mod-
erndiner”movement. Still,
it retains itsNorthernCal
elegance in theGoldRoom,
with itshuge fireplaceand
itsoutdoor patiodraped
witha retractable sailcloth.
Ingredientspour in from
the local farmersmar-
kets, allowing chefDavid
Rosner to turnout stunning
but simpledishes likea
lobster-and-leek terrinewith
saffrongelée; crispy, skin-on
salmonwith smoky lentils,
parsnip, bacon, salmon roe
and tarragonemulsion; and
rosemary-crustedahi tuna
with sunflower-seed risotto,
grilledasparagus and
cherry-tomato confit.
Forwindswept elegance
inagrand styleanda
panoramaof thePacific
Ocean,
BELLAVISTA
, set
withinFour SeasonsResort
TheBiltmoreSantaBarbara,
is aprime choice. Executive
chefAlessandroCartumini
setsoneof the finest Italian
menuson theWest Coast,
carefully inspiredby the
state’s cornucopiaof local
ingredients andbackedup
withadeepwine list rich
inSantaBarbara labels.
Kobe-stylemeatballs come
withoregano-scented
peperonataandSan Joaquin
cheese; pastas areall
madedaily; and the sauces
always follow the seasons,
aswithpennetteprimavera
with springvegetables,
parmesanandCalifornia
oliveoil. Line-caughtwhite
seabass is nestled inawild
mushroom ragùwithpeas
andpickled ramps.
When
THELARK
opened
lastAugust, everyonewas
looking forward to it.Named
after aSouthernPacific
RailroadPullman train—not
leastbecause itdebuted in
thehistoricSantaBarbara
FishMarketbuilding— it
broughtmore thana little
cachet to the surround-
ingarts-and-surf-shop
neighborhood,whichwas
in real needof a first-class,
serious restaurant.With 130
seats (includingacommu-
nity table), it’sabigplace,
and food is served family
style. Executivechef Jason
Paluska’shighly seasonal
cuisine rangesanywhere
frombroccolini roasted ina
cast-iron skillet anddashed
withwalnuts, cucumber yo-
gurt anda shotof chili flakes
toa sharedplatterofwhole
grilledbranzinowithSpanish
chorizo, spicedchickpeas,
artichokes, fennel, crisp
Meyer lemonanda lustrous
almond romesco.
SANTABARBARA,
CALIFORNIA
4
AUTUMN
AA.COM CELEBRATEDLIVING
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