BIRCH: JOHNM. SCONZO,M.D.
OVERTHELAST
10years, the
once crestfallenProvidence,
ever inBoston’s shadow,
has enjoyeda true renais-
sance that capitalizeson its
historic, architectural and
ethnic strengths. Part of
the revitalization isdue to
the fact that theProvidence
Riverwasdivertedandde-
velopmentwas encouraged
along itsbanks. Regardless,
withpicturesqueNewport
just ahalf-hour away, the
cityhasbecomeadeserv-
edlypopular tourist spot.
WithinProvidence’sdown-
townArcade—America’s
first enclosed shopping
center, dating to 1828— the
new
ROGUE ISLANDLOCAL
KITCHEN&BAR
has caught
on fast as agastropub,
drawingon local ingredients
and craft beers from sources
within75milesof the
restaurant. Area craftsmen
alsoappended the interior’s
stunning 19th-century
brickworkandexposed
timberwith reclaimedwood.
chef RyanBassettebrings
anAtlanticCoast sensibil-
ity toamenu that includes
innovativedishes like car-
rots roasted inhaywitha
parsnip-horseradish foam;
porkbelly cured in coffee,
with sweet-potatohashand
anapple-cider gastrique
toppedwithapoachedegg;
andbrown-sugar pound
cakewithpoachedpears,
“walnutella” andTriple8
bourbon-caramel ice cream.
On themenu, hepays thanks
toproviderswithwonderful
names likeBuffoni Poultry
Farm, RhodyMilk, Aquid-
neckHoneyandYacht Soda,
andyou could spend several
eveningsdoing flightsof
spiritswith thoroughly
American labels likeSonsof
Liberty, BullyBoy, Privateer
andThomasTew.
Alsodowntown, in the
BiltmoreGarage, is
FIGIDINI
WOODFIREEATERY
, whose
namemeanswhat it says:
Everythingmadehere
comes out of a fierybeehive
oven, beginningwith a
truly authenticNeapolitan
pizza. It’s small, cramped
and loud, andpeople flock
herehappily towait for
a table (no reservations).
Co-owners Frankie andKara
Cecchinelli have agood
pedigree: Frankie’s parents
opened awood-burning
restaurant inWaltham,
Mass., 30years ago, then
another onCapeCod, and
thepresent generationof
Cecchinellis is committed to
that heritage, expandingon
itwithoven-grilleddishes
likeboneless chicken thighs
withgarlic, rosemary, kale
andblackpepper, and a
skirt steakwithGorgonzola
cream andgrilled tomato.
There’s even apizzawith
sweet potato, goat cheese,
caramelizedonion and
mozzarella, which shows
just how far pizzahas come
while retaining a strong link
to thepast.
BIRCH
ownersBenjamin
andHeidi Suklegrewup
drinkingPennsylvaniaDutch
BirchBeer, and they say they
want togrow their restau-
rant “from the rootsup.”Ben
graduated fromProvidence’s
Johnson&WalesUniversity
beforeheading toEurope,
wherehe studiedat theMi-
chelin two-starCopenhagen
restaurantNoma. Nomi-
natedby
TheProvidence
Journal
as theonly chef
among “11 [people] towatch
in2011,” he’s risen to the
honor, capturingmanyof to-
day’s culinary styles, includ-
inga farm-to-tableagenda
andaneye for beautyof
theplate,withdishes like
Vermont lambwith roasted
celeriac, creamed chicory
andnasturtiums, anda
rhubarbopera cakewith
sweetwoodruff and toasted
almonds.
Newport iswortha
journeyof itsown, and the
venerable
CASTLEHILL INN
has anewchef, Louisiana-
bornKarstenHart,whohas
brought the restaurant at
thiselegant 24-room inn
well into the21st century.
Hismenu (whichchanges
every four to sixweeks) is
a finemixofNewEngland,
AmericanandEuropeancui-
sines,witha substantialwine
list toback it up. Youmight
beginwithacomplementary
amuseof butter-poached
lobsterwith fennel cream
andcracker crumbs. Rhode
Islandoysters comewitha
clementinegranitaanda
touchof freshwasabi,while
pan-roasted fluke swims in
a richoyster stewwith red
flannel hash,wilted spinach
and shaved fennel. Finish
thingsoffwitha friedapple
piewithbourbon-lacedcara-
mel vanilla icecreamanda
lushbrownbutter crumble.
PROVIDENCE,
RHODE ISLAND
3
CLOCKWISE
FROMTOP:
The
fineart of food
presentation ison
displayatNewport,
R.I.’sCastleHill
Inn. Executive
chefKarstenHart
andJoeMcCarthy
prepare for the
ultimate lobster
boil. Farm-to-table
fare likeRhode
IslandBeef Tartare
(left)proves
alluring forguests
atProvidence,
R.I.’sBirch.
AUTUMN
AA.COM CELEBRATEDLIVING
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