practicallyshimmerwithsmearsof light
pink.Thesauce,madewithchicken fat,
generouslycoversthecrabsandprovidesa
perfectcounterpointofflavor. “Schmaltz!”
Abergelsaysasheswirlstheshellfish
around inthegolden-brownnectar. “You’d
neverthink itworkswithcrab,but itworks
perfectly.”
Perhaps forgettingthatwestillhave
threerestaurantstohit,hethenorders
TheChairman’splatterofspareribswith
preservedplums incaramelizedblackvin-
egar—andthis isnothing likethestuthat
comes inabag frommy localChinesetake-
out.WhenAbergelasks ifIcanhandle it,
hemakesthequestionsoundmore likea
challenge.Ofcourse, Isayyes.
Afterdevouringtheplateofribs,we
headotoChachawan,a funkilydesigned
Thai jointthatAbergeloften frequents
for lunch.Whileour journeyrequiresan
incliningstroll, itdoesn’treallydoenough
toburnoTheChairman’scalories,andI
arrive feelingstued—butIvow(silently)
tosoldieron.
Housed ina longand leanspace,
Chachawanspecializes indishes from
northernThailand. Inanecientman-
ner, thecountermantakesourorderand
quicklyproducesplatesofmincedpork
withfishsauce,poundedgreenpapaya
withchilipeppersandsweet-and-sour
duck. “WhatI likeaboutthisplace isthat
theykeep itsimple,”Abergelsaysaschefs
stirandchopandsizzle justa few feet
fromus. “Nobody’stryingtoreinventthe
wheel—thoughtheydidhavetotonedown
thespice.WhenChachawanfirstopened,
peoplecomplainedabouttheheat level.”
Poppingaspicygreenbean intohismouth,
headds, “Nowtheyhave it justright.”
OurquicktasteofChachawan
underscoresthebeautyofHongKong
dining.WhileacoupleofcoursesatThe
Chairmanran inexcessof$100, theThai
foodherecosts justa fraction—andboth
wereterrific.
LeavingChachawan,Abergel leads
methroughaseriesofcongestedstreets
teemingwithoceworkersout forspeedy
lunches.Afterpassinga fewrestaurants
that look fairly identical,heopensthedoor
toSisterWah,whichservesnoodlesthe
old-fashionedway:preparedbyacouple
ofguys inaglassbooth,accompaniedbya
bowlofmeat.Youmix ityourself, jazzing
thewholethingupwithspoonfulsofchili
oil.Warmwater is free, coldwateryoupay
for—and ifyouwantanapkin,yourwaiter
willsellyouapocket-sizepackof tissues.
It’saboutasdeliciousandasgourmetas
youcanget, inthesimplestofsurrounds.
Wemake itabouthalfwaythroughour
noodlesbeforewecryuncleandadmitthat
we’regluttons, too full forthe laststopon
our itinerary.ButAbergelsuggestspopping
wecryuncleandadmit thatwe’regluttons, too full for the last stoponour itinerary.
FROMLEFT:
The chicken-centric
Yardbird—oneof the city’s
hottest restaurants— serves
inventive cocktails anddishes like
chickenoyster yakitori (pictured).
AA.COM CELEBRATEDLIVING
AUTUMN
71
