August 2014 Celebrated Living - page 64

THISPAGE: RESTAURANT 17: COURTESYRESTAURANT 17.OPPOSITEPAGE, TOP: TODDZIMMER
GREENVILLE’SVISIONARY city
fathershave changed this
once-sleepy textile town
intoadynamicattraction
formajor corporations like
BMW,MichelinandGeneral
Electric—goodneighbors
whohavepouredmoney
into thearts and charity,
leading toa thriving cultural
scene. In turn,more than
100 restaurantshave
openedalongMainStreet
alone, including thehighly
successful DARKCORNER
DISTILLERY,whichmakes
Appalachianmoonshine
withnames likeHotMama
andTiger Fire.
ROOST, next to the
downtownHyatt, serves
soil-to-city cooking ina
sleek,wood-paneleddining
areawithanopenkitchen
that puts the talent of chef
TrevorHigginsondisplay
ashe turnsout breakfast,
lunchand supper.While
menuofferings change
seasonally, an ideal day
wouldbeginwithCarolina
shrimpandmilledgrits, or
biscuits ina sausagegravy;
middayofferingsmight
includeaCarolinaoyster
po’boy sandwich; andat
night,maybeyou can lap
up thegenerousplatesof
beer-lacedbarbecue, bacon-
wrappedmeatloaf andwarm
chili queso fondue.
Ina similar vein,
AMERICANGROCERY
RESTAURANT hasgarnered
national attention from
Saveur and TheBostonGlobe
for chef-owner JoeClarke’s
modern takeon thekindof
foodhisgrandmothermade
himwhilehewasgrowing
up inSpartanburg, S.C. That
meansgrilledgrouperwith
Carolinablack rice, beets,
turnipgreensandbrown
misobutter; confit of rabbit
withhorseradishgnocchi,
wildmushrooms, arugula
and saucemoutarde; and the
surprisinglypopularbraised
beef tonguewithcharred
onion spaetzleanda smoked
tomatocream.Meanwhile,
wife, partner and sommelier
DarleneMann-Clarke stocks
oneof thecity’sbestwine
listsof small estates.
Set at thebaseof
LibertyBridge, which
spans the tumbling falls
that cut throughGreen-
ville, PASSERELLEBISTRO
(passerelle is French for
“footbridge”) is a casual
new spotwhere chef Teryi
Youngblood, now cooking
in town formore than 17
years, has adaptedbeloved
French classics toSouth
Carolina taste. Youmight
beginwith ablue cheese-
celery terrine andpâté
with apricotmustard fruits,
cornichons and cashews
on a crustybaguette, or
splurgeon abigbowl of
mussels scentedwith saf-
fronor basquaise. Seasonal
cassoulets include a steam-
ing amalgamof lamb and
andouille sausage, veal
ossobuco, whitebeans and
Swiss chard.
RESTAURANT 17, just
outside of town in Travelers
Rest, within the luxurious
Hotel Domestique resort, is
one of themost ambitious
new restaurants. In a dining
room covered in 50 shades
of gray, chef AdamCooke
proves himself amaster
of international cuisine,
ranging from house-made
charcuterie and artisanal
cheeses to platedwonders
of global cuisine like
Alabama grass-fed hanger
steakwith twice-cooked
potatoMacaire, rosemary
carrots and luscious
black garlic-foie gras bor-
delaise (themenu changes
almost daily).
GREENVILLE,
SOUTHCAROLINA
1
THEDETAILS
DarkCornerDistillery
241-BN.MainSt.
(864) 631-1144
www.darkcorner
distillery.com
Roost
220N.MainSt.
(864) 298-2424
www.roost
restaurant.com
AmericanGrocery
Restaurant
732S.MainSt.
(864) 232-7665
www.american
gr.com
PasserelleBistro
601 S.MainSt.
(864) 509-0142
www.passerelle
inthepark.com
Restaurant 17
Hotel Domestique
10RoadofVines
TravelersRest, S.C.
(864) 516-1715
www.hotel
domestique.com/
restaurant-17
TOPTOBOTTOM:
Cocktail hour
withaRedmond’s
Boulevardier
atDarkCorner
Distillery; ahouse-
made charcuterie
plateatRestaurant
17; theRooster
Burger atRoost
AUTUMN AA.COM CELEBRATEDLIVING
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