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tokyo: Soba Noodles
Appetite
for
An
Tucked intomysuiteat theShangri-LaHotel,Tokyo, I’m thinking that itwouldbe
easy tosurviveon roomserviceanddinnersat the in-houseculinaryhot spots
Piacere (high-end Italian food)andNadaman (Kaiseki-styleJapanese food)—with
mealsaugmentedby theLobbyLounge’scocktails,whichareexpertlyshakenand
extrahard, as is theTokyostyle thesedays.But even themost smittenhotel guest
needs togetoutandexplore thecity. Forme, thatusuallyentailsasearch for the
best local cuisine.
Second, perhaps, tosushi, noodlesstandoutas the iconic foodof Japan, anda
greatnoodledinnerbecomes theobjectofmyquest.Butwithin theworldofnoo-
dles, thingscangeta littlecomplicated.
Shangri-LachefOliverWeberandhis
chef tournantKensukeNakamura (pic-
tured top right)offer tosetmestraight.
Onemorning, hoursbeforeNadaman
opens forbusiness, theygreetme there
withanarrayofnoodles: thinsoba
made frombuckwheat; fat, flour-based
udon; andbowlsof ramennoodlessteeping insoup. “It’sanancient
food,”Nakamuraexplains througha translator. “Noodlesdateback
thousandsofyearsandwereeatenbysamurai—as theoriginal fast
food—before theybecame fashionableamong thewealthy.”
Armedwithknowledge—primarily thatartisanal soba is thenoodle
of choice in theseparts—andaiming tohavearefinednoodleexperi-
ence, Imakemyway from theShangri-La to theRoppongidistrictof
For food lovers,Asia isamust-godestination.
Exotic fruits, palate-ticklingspices, andamaz-
ingcooking techniques turn thecontinent into
agourmet’sparadise.Adventurouseaters
are rewardedwithelegant noodles inTokyo,
ethereal soupdumplings inShanghai,
unimaginablygoodduckdinners inBeijing,
andelaboratebanquets inHongKong.
It’sawhirlwind tripof amazingflavors
and top-notch service. Comealong for the
ride, and remember tobringyourappetite.
TOP:
© JOSEPHCHENGWAIHOK/GETTY IMAGES; LEFT:
© JOHN& LISAMERRILL/GETTY IMAGES
