Xxxxx
Xxxxxxxxx
63
celebratedliving.com
FALL 2010
LEFT:© XXXXXXXX
After an auspicious NewYork debut in
the 1980s, Thomas Keller took the res-
taurantworldby stormwhen he opened
The French Laundry in theNapa Valley
in 1994. And that, as the poet said,
made all the difference. Blessedwith
access to stellar product and free to ex-
ercise his imagination upon the classical
skills hemastered at the iconic Guy
Savoy and Taillevent in Paris, Keller
producedflawlessly orchestrated plates
that had patrons and the press swoon-
ing.WhileKeller is not averse tounusual
combinations, it’s the truth and clarity
of his cooking thatmost impresses; the
way he’s able tomake diners believe
they’re tastingahalibut fillet or a carrot
for thefirst time. Or, for thatmatter,
devil’s food cake (opposite page), as it
appears in his take on the English pas-
try known as Banoffee (served at
Keller’s Manhattan outpost, Per Se).
Andwhowouldn’t sigh at the sight of
The French Laundry’s tart cherry sorbet
(above), companionably turned outwith
sesame nougatine and vanilla sherbet?
Although Keller’s sweets are lusciously
seductive, as anyonewho has dined at
his restaurantswill attest, thewooing
begins long before, through such dishes
as his signature offering, Oysters and
Pearls, a sabayonof tapiocawith exqui-
site oysters andOsetra caviar. french
laundry.com, perseny.com
T
homas Keller
