FALL 2010
celebratedliving.com
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It’s8p.m. atSummerPalace, achandelieredChi-
nese restaurant inside theclassicandalways-
elegant IslandShangri-LaHotel inHongKong.A
large tablehasbeensimplyadornedwithawhite
cloth, silverware, chopsticks,wineglasses, and, in
thecenter, aplastic lazySusan.Clearly, it’s time for
aChinesebanquet.This formofdining,whichmay
have inspiredFrance’s famoushaute-cuisine tast-
ingmenus, showsoff thegenerosityandgood taste
ofwell-heeledhosts. In theprocess, nobodygoes
homehungry.
Whilemostbanquetsareheld inprivate rooms,
thisone issituated inacornerofSummerPalace.
Noproblem.We’rewilling toenjoyour feastout in theopen, partaking inacustom thatdates
backat least to theSongDynasty (whichended in1279),whenChinese royaltyengaged indec-
adentlygargantuan feasts.Thesedays, though, youdon’tneed tobeaprince; you justneed
enoughcash topay theprincelysum thata largenumberof courseswill generate.
OurbanquetatSummerPalacebeginswithwarm towels, glass-
esof rice-basedwine, andaparadeof appetizers.Typically,Chi-
nesemealsareservedwitheight entrees (eight isconsidereda
luckynumber)brought to the tableall atonceandshared family
style.Banquet coursesarebroughtoutoneata time,withflavors
andcomplexitycontinuallybuilding.
Forstarters, ourwaiterbringsapairof tofuofferings: one
braised,withmushrooms, lilybulbs, anddates; theothercom-
prisessilky tofuskinsfilledwithvegetables.Theyserveasa
slow launch toabigmeal thatgoeson to includemarinatedsliced
beef anddeep-frieddumplingsfilledwithdicedshrimp.Atone
point, agiantbowl of steamingsoup touchesdownat the table’s
center.Traditionally it’sshark-finsoup, but tonight, asaconces-
sion toAmericanpalates, ourhostopts forhot-and-soursoup
spikedwithseafood.
Rather than comingoutmerelyas accompaniment, rice at a
banquet gets servedas its own course— in this case, a friedver-
Hong Kong: Chinese Banquet
INSIDER’S TIP:
Summer Pal-
ace provides the classic Chi-
nese banquet— complete
with doting service— but an
updated version of this type
of meal can be had at
Hutong, which is decorated
to recall old Beijing (albeit in
a verymodernway). Be sure
to snag a seat near one of the
floor-to-ceilingwindows be-
fore 8 p.m. and enjoy the
light show that takes place
each night on the opposite
side of Victoria Harbor.
DETAILS:
Summer Palace,
shangri-la.com; Hutong,
aqua.com.hk
TRAVEL
An Appetite for Asia
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:COURTESY SUMMERPALACE;COURTESYGREBSTADHICKS;COURTESY SUMMERPALACE;COURTESYGREBSTADHICKS
