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Hemispheres
managingeditor
JustinGoldman
needsafull-time
cadejo
forall ofhis travels.
water,whereweenjoyacoupleof largeGallosandaplatterof
boquitas
,tastybitesoftortilla,guacamole,steakandsalsa.The
waves are really rockingnow,andNorman recalls aMayan
legend that explainswhy.
“AprincessandaTz’utujilman from theother sideof the
lake fell in love,but theSpaniardswanted the girl,”he tells
me.“So they tied a stone around theman’s neck and threw
him in thewater.And then the princess took a
cayuco
, and
she jumped in thewater.And so every day,between4 and
5o’clock intheafternoon,peoplebelievethattheprincessand
themandance together.”
We knockback a fewmoreGallos,watching thewaves
dance,andthentakeawalkupSantander,where thetacocarts
are still doingabrisk trade.We cut left ontoCallePrincipal
andup toBarCircus,wherewe find a small dog sittingon
the sidewalkout front.“We call that a
cadejo
,”Norman says.
“He’sgood luck.Ifyouseea
cadejo
in frontofabar,he’llhelp
yougethomewhenyou’redrunk.”
Our canine guardian follows us inside and sets up camp
underourtable,waitingforhandouts.Whenacoupleofguitar
players take the stage,he jumpsupand liesat their feet.The
musicians takeLatin rock requests from the crowd,andwe
splitapizza toppedwithsalami,mushroomsandolives,with
morethanenoughmargaritas.AsIdrainthe lastofthetequila
frommyglass, thedogwanders backover,and I scratchhis
ear. “Whatdoyou think,
cadejo
?Time togohome?”
As if inanswer,he springsupanddashes for thedoor.On
to thenext adventure.
