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FAHTHAI
certification, the pepper must be produced as it always has been
– organically, without the use of artificial fertilisers or non-
traditional farming methods.
Demand for the pepper is on the rise, and Kampot’s farms
are expanding in an attempt to meet it. The space devoted to
the crop has more than doubled to 41 hectares since 2012, yet
demand continues to outstrip supply. As a result, prices are
shooting up: black peppercorns went from US$8/kg in 2012 to
US$11 last year. “Demand is too high,” Anna says. “We keep
getting inquiries for quantities that we could never supply.” As
a result, Starling Farm is planning to boost its production from
six tonnes in 2014 to 20 tonnes in just five years.
Beyond its mystique and fascinating history, the flavour of
Kampot pepper is what adherents credit for its widespread
appeal. “It has a woodsy, almost fruity taste that delivers some
heat,” says Tom Gordon, co-founder of The Pepper Project
(pepperproject.org), a non-profit group that sells Kampot
pepper on behalf of small Cambodian producers to buyers in
the US and elsewhere. “Once you try Kampot pepper, it’s tough
to go back... the flavour is out of this world.”
There are four pepper varieties produced in Kampot: red,
black, white and green. Green pepper, known for its delicate
citrus taste, is harvested when the peppercorns are still unripe
and has a shelf life of just four days. For this reason, it can
only be enjoyed at its best in Cambodia. Black pepper, the
best-known variety, has a deeper, stronger and vaguely floral
flavour with elements of eucalyptus and mint. Red peppercorns,
meanwhile, are fully ripened seeds. They’re sweeter and
less spicy than the black variety. White pepper is created by
soaking red peppercorns in hot water, then removing the skin.
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PROTECTED
SPECIES
Kampot pepper is
now safeguarded
by an EU initiative
on regional foods
