Fah Thai March 2014 - page 55

FAHTHAI
53
“I have seen more
trendy standalone
restaurants
arriving on the
scene in Phuket
in recent years,
providing healthy
competition for
those of us already
here. If they want
to succeed though,
they’ll need to stick
to their concept
to be able to
make it through”
Tammasak
Chootong
Chef & owner,
Suay
Suay
This is a Thai restaurant like no other in Phuket. Located
down a quiet backstreet in the Old Town, it occupies a
nondescript little green-and-white house, with stepping
stones leading in from the hedge-lined entrance. Guests can
choose to dine on the wraparound verandah or indoors. In
keeping with the humble surroundings, the menu features
simple yet elegant Thai dishes, including Isaan classics like
papaya salad with crispy fried fish, alongside more Western-
influenced offerings such as grilled lamb chop marinated
with a lemongrass and tomato salsa. The dessert menu,
which features delicacies like mango sticky rice spring rolls
with black sesame ice cream and
Kaiserschmarrn
(German
pancakes), offers the clearest proof that this is not your
typical Thai restaurant. Though born in Thailand, Suay
owner and chef Tammasak “Noi” Chootong spent his teen
years in Stuttgart, Germany, where he picked up the language
and was inspired to combine European techniques with the
flavours and ingredients of his homeland.
suayrestaurant.com
Breeze at Cape Yamu
If you dine out only once in Phuket, make it a meal at Breeze. American-
Filipino chef Cheryl Johnson leads one of the friendliest kitchen teams
you’re likely to meet, plus a marvellous sommelier from Quebec. The menu
is modern French, a result of Johnson’s previous work in Montreal (most
of her team followed her to Phuket from Canada). The team manages the
difficult trick of turning out offerings that are simple yet refined, dishes
where the ingredients – sourced locally wherever possible – are allowed
to shine. Highlights include the duck confit with kale, baby corn, leeks,
shiitake and a spicy honey glaze along with a dessert of dried chocolate
mousse, peanut cream, whisky chocolate sauce, basil and strawberry sorbet.
breezecapeyamu.com
I N D U L G E
Gourmet isle
Like the island itself, Phuket
s
culinary scene has evolved to
cater for a more worldly and
discerning clientele
PHUKET PALATE
The dining scene
has undergone a
transformation over
the last few years
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