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In fact, what sets Amsterdam’s red light district apart
is that property prices have always been relatively high
there, on account of its location and historic significance.
“Fundamentally, it’s a pedestrianised area with
beautiful architecture and canals, and it’s only a five-
minute walk from the central station – what’s not to
love?” enthuses Afaina de Jong of Ultra de la Rue, who
grew up nearby.
“The presence of prostitutes doesn’t necessarily signal
‘bad area’ in the way that it might do elsewhere. It’s just
part of life,” says Swedish publishing executive Magnus
Åkesson, who has lived in the city for 14 years. “In the De
Pijp district, for example, there’s a stylish new five-star
hotel, Sir Albert, that’s right next door to a red light strip.
The owners obviously don’t see that as a problem. Nor
should they, if everything is safe and properly regulated.”
Of course, this isn’t the first clean up it’s experienced.
In late medieval times, the trade in women was restricted
on religious grounds, and priests and married men were
forbidden from entering the area. In 1578, during the
Dutch Revolt against Spanish rule, a Protestant city
board was formed and fornication became punishable.
Working girls were banned and their activities were
driven underground.
Since then, Amsterdam’s well-heeled denizens have
been rubbing along nicely with the area’s less salubrious
visitors, and most believe this is likely to continue in De
Wallen – so long as the area doesn’t sacrifice all of its
edge in pursuit of ersatz respectability. “I think there’s
room for everyone here,” says de Jong, “I don’t think
anybody need panic.”
Indeed, for some, the neighbourhood has already
reached its perfect balance, even providing a backdrop
safe enough to raise a family. Young American mother
Dita Guth, whose apartment overlooks one of the
district’s most vibrant intersections, has few qualms
about bringing up her child in one of the world’s most
notorious fleshpots. “As far as I’m concerned, all of
human life is here,” she says, “and long may it continue.”
Amsterdam
need to know
(
86
)
Percentage of inhabitants who speak
three languages
(
1.2
)
The number, in millions, of bicycles in the
city – there are only 820,000 residents
(
3.2
)
Average number of cups of coffee drunk
by every resident daily
easyJet
flies to Amsterdam from 19 destinations.
See our insider guide on page 135. Book
online at easyJet.com
easyJet Holidays
Two nights B&B at the four-star Arena
Hotel, departing Liverpool John Lennon
on 18 May, costs from £163 per person.
easyJet.com/holidays*
ART’OTEL AMSTERDAM
Featuring its own happening social venue,
gallery indoor pool and free breakfasts.
Book at hotels.easyJet.com
* F R T&CS SEE P157
“ F UNDAME NTA L LY , I T ’ S A P E D E S T R I AN I S E D
A R E A W I T H B E AU T I F U L A RCH I T E C T U R E AND
CANA L S – WH AT ’ S NOT TO LOV E ? ”
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