Local
highlights
Studio Spornes
On the topfloor, a
yoga studiodoubles as
an intimateconcert
venuewhereKarl Ove’s
brother YngveKnausgård
recentlyplayed.On the
groundfloor is achic
caféwherechef and
musicianEinar Stokke
Fadnesproduces some
of Tromøya’smost
interestingcuisine.
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StudioSpornes
Fiskebrygga
This small fishmarket is
a funplace toacquaint
yourselfwith the
excellent local seafood:
a selectionof smoked
salmon, pickledherring
andNorwegian lobster.
Fans should try the
shrimp (KarlOve’s special
treat in
ADeath in the
Family
).
kristiansand-
norway.com
Yess! Hotel
With its stripped-
downNordic style, this
cheeryhostel on the
edgeof Kvadraturen
is efficiently run and,
more importantly,
warm as toast.We like:
thecomfortablebeds,
the freeWiFi, and the
friendly staff, forwhom
nothing is toomuch
trouble.
yesshotel.no
ALAMY; MARCO DI FILIPPO
Idroveoutof townalong thecoastalmotorway
andspent theday roaming the island,huntingdown
such important sitesas theFina (nowShell)petrol
station, apopularhang-out forhis littlegangof
friends, and the little redhouseatHove,nowpart
of aholidaycamp, but shutteredandsilent in the
winter. From thecar Iwalkedamong thepine trees,
as theymusthavedone, towards thehousewith the
beachbeyond it. Itwashard to imagine this lifeless,
colourlessscenewithout thesnowandcold.
Butas I stoodstaringat thegrey-blueNorthSea,
I couldn’thelp remembering luminousdescriptions
ofhischildhoodscamperingsover the island in the
warm, calmdaysof theNorwegiansummer. “Where
didwego? Into the forest.Down toUbekilen, toa
bay…Up into thehills…Down to theFinapetrol
station.Thatwaseverything.Thatwas theworld.
Butwhataworld!”
Norwegianflies toKristiansand fromOslo.Book
flights,ahotelandarental caratnorwegian.com
From above
⁄
Ahouse in
Kristiansand town
centre;WeMiddle
School,which
Knausgardattended
in the 1970sbefore
moving to the
Cathedral School
060\
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