which has a story: This street once hosted dangerous
horse races, in which the rider who got closest to the
edge would win.One man plunged over andmiracu-
lously survived the fall, and local residents went on to
build theCapilla del SantoCristo to thankGod.
We continue downCalle Fortaleza, past Barrachina,
the restaurant where the piña colada was invented in
1963, and duck into Andrews’ shop,Mi Pequeño San
Juan,where she andher painterhusband,Nicolas,create
plaster replicas of local landmarks.Around the corner
from here is her café, the Poet’s Passage, its counter
modeled after a roll-top desk, with slips of paper and
pens on each table in case the spiritmoves you.There’s
also a chihuahuanamedFedericoGarcíaLorca,agreen
parrot named Pablo Neruda, and a lovebird named
RobertFrost.Anotherbird,MayaAngelou,diedacouple
of years ago—coincidentally,at around the same time as
MayaAngelou the poet.
I say goodbye toAndrews andhead to theMuseo de
Arte de Puerto Rico, which is housed in a 1909 neo-
classical hospital with a contemporary annex.While
outside the limits of Old San Juan, it’s an institution
steeped in history. Like the building, the museum’s
Laurel Kitchen/Art Bar plays with the theme of old-
meets-new.Here,
Next IronChef
contestantMarioPagán
lovingly remixes the flavors of his homeland.
“We’re all about the pork,”he
says, dishing up pig-ear crack-
ling with tamarind sauce and
plantain
mofongo
. So begins a
cascade of courses that include
brie croquetteswithpapaya skin
preserves; lamb
alcapurrias
(frit-
ters)withmint
pique
aioli;
pegao
(crispy rice that sticks to the
bottom of the pot) with blood
SantaMaríaMagdalena
dePazzisCemetery
Fried red snapperat
SodaEstudiodeCocina
THREE
PERFECT
DAYS
1493 YEAR CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS CLAIMED PUERTORICO FOR SPAIN
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