*FOR T&CS SEE P179
Barcelona
need to know
(
90
)
Percent of the world's cava is produced in
Sant Saurní d'Anoia, 50km from the city
(
21
)
Number of restaurants with one or more
Michelin stars in the Catalan capital
(
227
)
Age of Barcelona's oldest restaurant, Can
Culleretes, founded in 1786
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goats and, of course, pigs. Indeed, Catalonia produces
a staggering array of salami and sausages, led by local
favourite, botifarra.
This rare abundane of produce also feeds into one of the
region's most notable culinary traditions:
may y mantagna
.
Meaning 'sea and mountain', it's all about combining meat
with seafood and you can try examples at Ca l’Enric
(calenric.net)
, run by the Juncá siblings. It lies north of Olot,
in La Vall de Bianya, and is also famed for showcasing the
produce of the nearby volcanic Garrotxa district.
For a high-end experience in Olot itself, check out the
two-Michelin starred Les Cols
(lescols.com)
, where
cutting-edge Catalan cuisine is served in a restaurant
that doubles as a stunning example of modernist
architecture. The angular, minimalist aesthetic there is
as far removed as can be frommore rustic Catalan dining
rooms and it serves to underpin a debate that's ongoing
in the area: should age-old traditions be protected?
Don’t forget: this part of the world came to global
gastronomic prominence courtesy of a certain arch-
moderniser Ferran Adrià and his restaurant el Bulli,
which broke all the rules. But there are many who, while
welcoming the attention – and visitors – the chef brought
to the region, believe its culinary heritage is too
important to forget. In this light, perhaps the Roca
brothers provide a perfect solution? Mixing genuine
innovation with deep-rooted local sensibilities, they are
protecting Catalan traditions while simultaneously
propelling them forward into the wider world.
WilliamDrew is editor of Restaurant magazine. He
stayed in Barcelona as a guest of Destination BCN. Book
a table at cellercanroca.com, +34 972 222 157
HIGH TABLES
15
The dramatic modern
décor of Les Cols
17
Tomatoes fresh from
Can Rusques Farmers'
market
15
16
17
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W O R L D ' S B E S T F O O D
R O C A B R O T H E R S
