example, the restaurant’s website received over two-
million hits. It now takes bookings 11 months in advance
and all tables disappear within two days of the
reservation line opening at the beginning of each month.
The international foodie elite have come flocking.
And, while some of themmight have been looking to
pick holes in the Festival tasting menu’s 14 courses plus
snacks (€165), few have come away anything other than
utterly charmed by the experience.
Take the first so-called snack: a fanned paper globe
is delivered, which is then pulled back to reveal five
canapés, each of which represents a flavour from a
different country of the world that head chef Joan has
been inspired by. You are told the countries, but not the
order, leading to a gentle test of the senses (the eyes
sometimes deceiving the tongue). It’s technically
brilliant, delicious and fun, without being overly showy.
Despite the initial journey around the globe, this is a
restaurant deeply rooted in Catalonia: it’s essentially a
local, family-owned business in a working-class suburb
of a relatively quiet city one hour north of Barcelona.
“[The restaurant] is something that is still close to
the people,” says Josep, who oversees the front-of-house
operation, as well as the restaurant’s wine list. “This
recognition is great for us, because of the long journey
we’ve been on, but it’s also recognition of the area in
which we live, of the land, the produce we use, the
FAMILY AFFAIR
01
Fig pudding: fig-leaf
cheese, fig ice cream,
almond, physalis, fig,
and fig-leaf terrine
02
From left, Jordi, Josep
and Joan Roca
03
El Celler's distinctive
tree garden
04
Girona's old town
05
Salad of sea anemone,
razor clam, royal
cucumber and seaweed
06
At work in the kitchen
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W O R L D ' S B E S T F O O D
R O C A B R O T H E R S
