“Girona is a
shy city,
so it feels
extraordinary
to be a focus
for the whole
world.”
Josep Roca is being his
usual self-effacing self. As one third of the all-
conquering team of brothers behind the world’s best
restaurant, you might think he deserves to feel just a
little bit smug, but there’s not a trace of irony in his voice
as he plays down the recent achievement of his family’s
establishment. “It’s not as if this has become a de luxe
restaurant,” he says, somewhat modestly, gesturing at
the airy, modern space we're sat in.
In April, El Celler de Can Roca was named as the
S Pellegrino & Aqua Panna World’s Best Restaurant for
the first time, taking over from three-time winner Noma
of Copenhagen. Of course, El Celler was well-established
before this globally recognised industry accolade. It has
been open for over 25 years, boasts three Michelin stars
and was previously ranked number two in the World’s
50 Best Restaurants list, but hitting the top spot has
thrust the extraordinary combined talents of Joan, Josep
and Jordi Roca onto centre stage.
It all means things have moved up a gear in terms of
media attention, demand for tables and, indeed, pressure
to perform. In the 48 hours after its April elevation, for
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