particular pride in their regional cuisine. It's something
inherent to their very identity which, after being squashed
by Franco for so long, now burns all the more fiercely. Their
culinary culture is as sophisticated as any on the Iberian
peninsula – fuelled by an abundance of rawmaterials.
Despite its reputation as a tourist destination, the
Costa Brava retains a plethora of relatively undeveloped
fishing villages, semi-secret coves and forested cliff tops
to explore. It’s here that you can experience what
renowned food writer Claudia Roden describes as
the region’s "magisterial" fish and seafood dishes: the
famous
suquet de peix
(a seafood stewwith tomato and
garlic),
esqueixada
(salted-cod salad) and fresh-off-the-
boats sardines, traditionally grilled over oak. The best
place to do so is at Toc al Mar
(tocalmar.cat)
on Platja
d’Aiguablava – at least, that's according to Joan Roca
himself, who calls it “a simple place, but wonderful”.
And who are we to argue with the world’s best chef?
One of northern Catalonia’s delights is that it
produces such a multifaceted array of foodstuffs, due to
its juxtaposition of sea, rich coastal plain and Pyrenean
hillsides. Alongside the aforementioned piscatorial
highlights, there are superb vegetables and wild fungi.
The street market in the seaside village of Sant Feliu de
Guíxols, for example, is known for its knockout fresh
tomatoes and peppers, which are utilised to great effect
by local restaurants. And in early spring, all visitors
SURF & TURF
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Castell d'Emporda
14
Cap Roig beach in
Sant Antoni de
Calonja
must also try the unique char-grilled onions known
as calçots, traditionally served in rolls of newspaper in
rural taverns and eaten with your fingers.
A little north of Sant Feliu is the Empordà region
around La Bisbal, home to highly drinkable wine and its
own local speciality dish, spiced rabbit kebabs. Stay at
the beautiful Castell d’Emporda
(castelldemporda.com)
– a romantic hotel with a fine restaurant and even finer
views over the Catalan countryside.
Venture further inland and up toward the French
border, and you’ll discover forests that nurture every
variety of mushroom, hillsides dotted with sheep and
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W O R L D ' S B E S T F O O D
R O C A B R O T H E R S
