may2014
48
much tocounter the ravagesofmining that
invariablydestroyswholesectionsof the
CongoBasin rainforest, thus threatening
theecosystem.
Before the joint venture, theparkalso
suffered frompoaching, uncontrolled
agriculture, and illegal traffickingof ivory
andbushmeat– the fleshof all forest
dwellinganimals, includinggorillas. Small-
scaleecotourism initiatives inunknown
placessuchasDRCand
Congobring incomeand
opportunities for local
inhabitantsandscientists
whocomehere toconduct
their research.
Oneof them is the
famousSpanish
primatologist and
anthropologistMagdalena
Bermejowho, together
withherhusband,German,
andher team, hasbeen
studying thewestern
lowlandgorillassince
2000. She lost her first
study troop inLossi to the
Ebolaepidemicandhad to
start again fromscratch.
NowBermejoworks togetherwith
WildernessSafaris to takeguestsstaying
atNgagaLodge toobservegorillas ina
safe, animal-friendlymanner,while
continuingher research.
At present, therearearound20,000
gorillas in thisarea. Acoupleof troopsare
regularly tracked fromNgagaLodgeand
cangenerallybe locatedandobserved.
“This isauniqueopportunity for guests to
observe theonly true
Gorillagorillagorilla
subspecies in theearlystagesof becoming
accustomed tohumans,” saysBermejo.
“It isacompletelydifferent experience
from theone inUgandaorRwanda,where
mountaingorillasareaccustomed toseeing
groupsof peopleeveryday.”Currently, you
canexpect topayaround$750/€540per
person toseehighlandgorillas in the
VirungaMountainsofRwanda. The treks
also tend tobea littleshorter.
InCongo, apermit isnot requiredand
youcangogorilla trekkingeveryday from
NgagaLodge, andoften, youwill find
yourselves theonly tourists. There’salso
astrongchanceyouwill alsocomeacross
westernchimpanzees, awelcomebonus.
TheNgagaLodge trackersall come from
nearbyMbomovillage,where localscoexist
harmoniouslywith thegorillas. Theanimals
arenot huntedand their habitat is
respected.Westernguidesaccompanying
groupscome fromall over theworldand
Bermejoandher team train themall.
NgagaLodge liesdeep in theNdzehi
Forest, inaclearingsurroundedbyalmost
impenetrable junglewhereMarantaceae
leavescreateagreen,metres-highcarpet.
Guestssleep inoneof six luxurious
lodgesbuiltwith localmaterialsand
inspiredby the traditionsof the local
Clockwise from right:
group leader and
Spanishprimatologist,
DrMagdalenaBermejo;
sundownat theLango
Camp; trekking through
the jungle; silverback
leaderNeptuno; one
of thecool bedrooms
at theLangocamp
AFRICA
