FAHTHAI
27
T
his is a spooky place. For a start there
are no birds. Not one. The only natural
sounds are the “chak-chak-chak” of
Asian brown squirrels and the chittering
of thousands of unseen bats. It’s gloomy,
too. Beyond the forest are rice fields bathed
in sunshine but here the trees soar overhead,
blocking much of the daylight. Welcome to Kham
Chanode, a strange island to the north-east of
Udon Thani that’s alive with myth and mystery.
It’s said that this is the only place in Thailand
where Tarn Tanode palm trees grow. Towering to
heights of 15-20m, each is topped with a delicate
crown of leaves. Some say the fruit of the palm
is poisonous, though no one knows for sure.
It’s also said that Kham Chanode floats – think
of the closing scenes of
Life of Pi
– and that its
foundation is a raft composed of palm-tree roots.
The water beneath is deep. No one is too eager
to find out
how
deep because the island is reputed
to be one of the portals of the mythical Naga,
the many-headed snake god and protector of the
Buddha who travels between Muang Badan, its
underwater world, and ours. According to legend,
the island is also a portal to the underworld
through which ghosts and spirits reach our world.
Faith in the mystical properties of Kham
Chanode has been reinforced by Wat Sirisuttho,
built just offshore. From the wat, a
naga
(serpent-
KHAM CHANODE
is on
the eastern edge of Udon
Thani province, north-east
of the provincial capital.
Book a tour by bus or taxi
in Udon Thani or hire a
car for the two-hour drive
from Udon.
TAKE ROUTE 22
(towards
Nakhon Phanom) for
about 40km and then
turn left onto Route 2096.
After another 40km you’ll
pass through Baan Dung
and then skirt around the
top of Tha Manao Lake.
LOOK OUT FOR SIGNS
directing travellers to
Kham Chanode, which is
accessible via a rural road
to the right. The island is
10km farther along. There
is plenty of parking at Wat
Sirisuttho.
Getting
there...
shaped) bridge leads past a dolorous-looking
prayer gong into the dusky interior, to shrines
and to the Naga Pool. There’s a pathway made
of concrete but beyond that the forest floor is
thick with ferns and creeping plants. The ground
here is damp and slippery; it’s easy to imagine the
unwary getting sucked under. On any given day
there are plenty of people around, but they tend
to speak in hushed tones. Visitors pose for photos
with serious expressions; there are no giggles or
cute V-signs. Offerings of flowers and incense are
made at the shrine, though some go instead to a
pair of giant banyan trees on the south side of the
island. There, they rub talc into the roots, trying
to make out winning lottery numbers.
Squirrels are everywhere, ignoring the human
interlopers but feasting on any sweetcorn that’s
left out for them. They’re probably the reason
why there are no birds here (squirrels like a good
bird’s egg for breakfast). Unsurprisingly, these
ubiquitous creatures are sleek and fat.
Tales of strange happenings surround Kham
Chanode. A decade ago, the operators of a
travelling cinema were hired to set up their screen
in Baan Dung. The crewmembers arrived on
the appointed day and were led into the trees
(you guessed it – Kham Chanode) where they
erected the screen. No one saw even one person
arrive but suddenly the clearing was packed with
people. Four films were screened for this silent
audience and then, just before 4am, everyone
disappeared. The crew hurriedly gathered up their
equipment and left. Later, they were unable to
locate the section of the forest where they’d held
the screening. Had they unwittingly played their
movies for an audience of ghosts?
Bangkok Airways
offers daily
direct flights to
Udon Thani from
Bangkok
TEXT: ALASDAIR FORBES;
ILLUSTRATION: PAOLO LIM AT ILLUSTRATIONROOM.COM.AU
