LEFT:© XXXXXXXX
2.
4
3
2
1
W
ithPeru’s terrain spanning from
coast tomountain to jungle, it’sonlyÿtting thecountry’s cuisinebeas com-
plexandvariedas the landscape. After all, this isaparadiseofbiodiversity:
Some3,000 typesofpotatoesaregrownhere, includingseveralblueandpur-
pleÿngerlingvarietiesprizedby the Incanemperorspast, not tomention su-
per fruits from thecitrusy, cherry-like
camucamu
to the
cocona
,whichbearsa
striking resemblance toapersimmon.Nowonder Limenosenjoyanembar-
rassmentof richeswhen it comes todiningout. Thediversityof cooking
stylesandcreative fusionshasgeneratedculinarycategories: Cebicherias
serveceviche; chifasare restaurantsdedicated toChinese-Peruviancooking;
nikkei explore the fusionof JapaneseandPeruvian ° avors. Andof course,
thereare these four incrediblyof-the-moment restaurants that each stand in
acategoryof theirown. —TANVI CHHEDA
ASTRID&GASTÓN, CALLECANTUARIAS 175,MIRAFLORES, 011-51-1-242-
4422, ASTRIDYGASTON.COM
Considered the father of Peru’s culinary
revolution, chefGastónAcuriohas createdanempireof restaurants from
Lima toMadrid toNewYork. Byall accounts, Acurio is a larger-than-lifeÿg-
ure,with the requisite cookbooks, cooking shows, andevenpleas from the
public to run for political o˛ ce. TogetherwithhisGerman-bornwife (apas-
try chef by training), he is responsible for initiatingwhat some call thenew
Andean cuisine. At his signature restaurant, opened in1994but still packed,
disheshave stagenames too, suchas “Carillera theWarrior” and “Thedance
of theAmazonianpaicheÿsh.” The restaurantwill bemoving this year toa
larger spacewithabotanical garden.
MANIFIESTO, INDEPENDENCIA 130,MIRAFLORES, 011-51-1-546-0201,
MANIFIESTO.PE
Within twomonthsofopening last summer, thisminimalist
restaurantbecame thehottest table inallof Lima. It still is, thanks to27-year-old
wunderkindGiacomoBocchio’s takeonPeruvian fare,which is in°uencedby
hisnativeTacna, thecountry’ssouthernmost region,wherehisgrandparents
oncehada restaurant, and infusedwithAsianandMediterranean ° avors. Start
withanapricotyTacnasour, followedby the lambandveal sweetbreadswith
Andeanblack-mintgnocchi. Finishwith thedulcede lechepannacottaaccom-
paniedbypecanpralineandbananascooked in
pisco
caramel.
MARAS, ESQUINALASBEGONIASCONAMADORREYNA, SAN ISIDRO,
011-51-1-201-5023,MARASRESTAURANTE.COM.PE
At this art-ÿlled
restaurant,which is located in theglittering30-storyWestin, chef Rafael
Piqueras combinesPeruvian stapleswithworldlynotes suchas sa˝ ronand
white-tru˙ eoil. Snaga tableon the terrace, an ideal perch fromwhich to
re° ect on the legendof Ayar Cachi,whichgives the restaurant itsname. The
storygoes that Peru’sgorgeous salt ° atson theMarasmesawere formed
from thedried tearsof Ayar Cachi,who felt dejectedwhenhisbrotherwas
chosen tobecome founder and ruler of the Incaempire.
ÁMAZ, AVLAPAZ 1079,MIRAFLORES, 011-51-1-221-9393, AMAZ.COM.PE
Chef PedroMiguel Schia˛ no followsup the successof his regularlypacked
restaurantMalabarwith thisevenmoreAmazonian-inclinedendeavor.
Though the formerusesAmazonian ingredients in itsmenu— from the
guava-like
araza
to
paiche
ÿsh— it’sámaZ that focuseson reinterpreting
traditionalAmazoniancooking. That translates intogloriously ° avorful dishes
suchasa tiraditoof rockÿshwithcashew, soy sauce, andBrazil nutoil, and
seafood saladwithgreenmango, papaya, banana °owers, andaraza juice.
Themenuaboard theAquaExpeditions riverboat
MVAqua
,whichSchia˛ no
oversees, is furtherproof of his lovea˝ airwithPeru’s interior jungle.
37
celebratedliving.com
FALL 2012
