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alkingalong thenarrow
streetsofNaples, acitywhoseartistic
diversityandricharchitecturalheri-
tagestill echo imagesof theGreeks
andRomanswhoconquered this
southern Italianseaport in the fourth
centuryB.C., onecan’thelpbutnotice
thesoundof laughter tingedwith the
aromaof seafood in theair.Thisdu-
alityof thesenses isparticularlypalpable in frontofDa
Dora, ahighly regarded local eaterywherebetween
coursesof
sardine fritte
(crispy friedsardines)and
lin-
guineallavongole
(pastawithclams) the restaurant
owner’sbaritonesistercantersaseriesof tongue-in-
cheeksongs inbetweenencouragingdiners to“
mangi-
are
,
mangia!”
(“eat, eat!”)Unlike the
Pulcinella
, the
long-sufferingclownmascotofNaples, thepeoplehere
areknownasmuch for their loveof lifeandsenseofhu-
moras their favoredcity is for itsmaritimecuisine, a
by-productof livingon thecuspof Italy’ssecondmost-
prodigiousseaport. Socommonare
oceanicspecialities like
molluschi
(clams),
polipo
(octopus), and
alici
(anchovies) thatmanyof the
pizzaiolos
working in the city’s holy grail of
restaurants— the famedNeapolitan
pizzerias— feature themalongside the
more traditional pizzaallaMargherita
(tomato, mozzarella),
salsiccia
(sau-
sage), and
friarielli
(broccoli)varieties.
Whiledining is leisure time inmost Italian cities,
it’smore likea celebration inNaples,whichmakes
sense considering theword
holiday
is said tohave
been inventedwhile gazing out at theBay of Naples
toward the spectacularAmalfi Coast and the lush
islandsofCapriand Ischia; even theworld’sfirstvacation
homewassaid tobedug in thesecondcenturyB.C. from
the lavaofMountVesuvius,whichstilldominatesevery
viewof thecity. Toaccess thesplendorsofNaples, visit
inaples.it, 011-39-081-402394,
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