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celebratedliving.com
FALL 2011
“The ideaof farm-to-tablecuisine is timeless—ourances-
torsate thisway longbeforewestarted talkingabout it,”
saysSamBeall, proprietorofBlackberryFarm, aRelais&
Châteauxpropertysitedon9,200acres in theGreatSmoky
Mountainsof easternTennessee. “Today, it’smoreabout
peoplebeingconsciousofwhat theyput into theirbodies.”
Sam represents the secondgenerationofBealls to run
theestate,whichhasestablished itself asanaward-
winningepicureandestination that producesaswell as
preparesdelicious food.GardenersJohnCoykendall and
JeffRoss cultivatea staggering rangeof heirloomproduce,
beehivesyield freshwildflowerhoney, threeheritage
breedsof chickensprovide fresheggs, and themilk from
East Friesian sheep servesas the fundamental ingredient
forartisanal cheeses craftedbyDustinBusby. Using this
sustainablyharvestedbounty, chefsJosephLennandJosh
Feathersexpresseach ingredient’sessential flavorwitha
straightforwardSouthern cooking style that hasbeen
dubbedFoothillsCuisine. “Both chefsare fromTennessee,
and this iswhat theirmommas cooked for them,” explains
Beall,whounderscores the farm’sdeeply rootedSouthern
characterand its communityof passionateprofessionals.
“Blackberry isnot about oneperson, owner, or chef, but a
teamof artisans—gardeners, cheesemakers, abutcher,
andothers.”
Photoson these twopages: China rosewinter radishes
areoneof several heirloomvarieties thatareharvested
from theproperty’sgardens.
Rockaway theafternoonon themainhouse lawn.
Sumac-dustedbisonwithchanterellemushrooms, beets,
spinach, andhazelnutsoffersa tasteof autumn.
WeeklyGardenDinners, heldduring theheightof the
growingseason, offeranopportunity tomeet thegardeners
whilediningal fresco.
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