august2014
41
FLYTO
brussels
frommorethan50europeandestinations.
brusselsairlines.com
guide (ofwhicha fewpagesaregiven to
Luxemburg)–something that even the
widely fetedDanish restaurant scenewon’t
havewhen theFrench tyremanufacturer
finallyacknowledgesculinary fashionand
publishesaNordicguidenext year (one
thatwill also include theSwedes, Finns
andNorwegians).
Belgiumcurrentlyhasasmany three-
star rated restaurantsas theUK (three),
and roughly thesamenumber of two- and
one-star establishments, despitehaving
about asixthof thepopulation.
While it seemschurlish tocomplain
about thestrengthofBelgium’sculinary
heritage, it’s important to lookbeyond
Trappist brews,
speculoos
(spiced
shortcrust cookies) and
waterzooi
(stew).
AfterBrussels, BrugesandAntwerp,
where there’snoshortageof traditional
finedining, Ghent inEast Flandersmight
seem likeanunlikelyplace toexperience
creative,modernBelgiancooking. But
that’sexactlywhereascenehasemerged
in thepast fewyears.
Oneof the richest cities innorthern
Europe in theMiddleAges, Ghent’smodern
claim to fame isas thesetting for the
GentseFeesten, a 10-daycultural festival
ofmusic, theatreandart that attracts
around twomillionvisitorseachJuly.
But threeyoungchefs, JasonBlanckaert,
OllyCeulenaereandKobeDesramaults,
dubbed the ‘FlandersFoodies’, aredoing
their best toalsoputGhent on the
contemporaryculinarymap. Childhood
friends, theymet andpartied in thecity,
home toBelgium’soldestDutch-speaking
university, beforegoingon to train in the
bestBelgianandFrenchkitchens.
Of the three, KobeDesramaults,whohas
just openedhissecondGhent restaurant,
DeSuperette, abrasseriebuilt arounda
wood-firedbakeryon thesiteof a former
conveniencestoreonHofstraat, is the
best known.Hemadehisnameandearned
aMichelinstar for amodernhaute
approach to local produceat InDeWulf,
about anhour’sdrive fromGhent in the
West Flanderscountrysidenear theFrench
border. In2011heopenedDeVitrine, acool
bistrohoused inanoldbutcher’sshop in
Ghent’s red light district.
“I’vebeenhangingout inGhent since
Iwas teenageskateboarder, so it hasa
special place inmyheart,”explains
Desramaults. “It’sa rather small city
comparedwithBrusselsorAntwerp, but
it hasa reallycreativevibe. I’m from
NEWBELGIANDINING
FivemodernGhent dining rooms
Publiek
Onceheexited thehighly regardedVolta,OllyCeulenaere tookhis
modernapproachand loveof local ingredients toamore intimate40-seat
spaceat thestartof thisyear.Hisfive-course tastingmenucosts€55and
offers interesting, stripped-backcombinationssuchashaddock,baby leeksand
hazelnut.
Ham39,+3293300486,publiekgent.be
DeVitrine
Lunchanddinnerof adaily-changingset six-coursesanda
coupleof snacksare€45atKobeDesramaultssmartbutcher’sshopbistro.
Coursessuchas lamb fromTexel (aDutch island), fennel andbarley,arematched
withnaturalwinesor local beers.
134Brabantdam,+3293362808,de-vitrine.be
J.E.F.
JasonBlanckaert’scooking isasunfussyashisbijoufirst-floor
dining room.Hisapproach ismodern,directandseasonal,asshownby
dishessuchas roastpork ribwithcauliflowerandhomemadepickles.
The lunchtimemenuof threecoursesandcoffee for€25 isabargain.
10LangeSteenstraat,+3293368058, j-e-f.be
MICHAELBLANCKAERT; PIETDEKERSGIETER
