cheese on a knife makes it taste saltier
than serving it on a spoon, toothpick
or fork. Looking to lower your sodium?
Might want to invest in a set of blue
knives. —JACQUELINE DETWILER
NOVEMBER 2013
•
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
that just as some food is certified as “Fair
Trade,” cultured beef could be sold with
a “Cruelty Free” label. Brin, for his part,
talked in broad terms about the industrial
slaughter of animals, which struck a chord
with people likeDr. IainBrassington, a lec-
turer inbioethics at theU.K.’sUniversity of
Manchester, who pointed out that “a cow
that doesn’t exist can’t suffer.”
Culturedmeat, though, is not just about
assuaging consumer guilt—there are
environmental concerns, too. Producing a
quarter-pound burger requires around 7
pounds of animal feed, 600gallons ofwater
and 75 square feet of land. It also releases
around 13 pounds of CO2 into the air. As
muchas 18percent of greenhouse gas emis-
sions are related tomeat production, and 26
percent of theworld’s land is used for graz-
ing. We are, say researchers, approaching a
“Peak Meat” scenario, a point at which the
worldsimplycannotsustainsuchpractices.
Meeting this demand with lab-grown
alternatives,however,worksonlyifthenew
product is affordable and at least some-
what like the real thing. The early reviews,
unfortunately,werescarcelyglowing.Taster
Josh Schonwald said the pa ywas like “an
animal protein cake,” while McGeown, the
chef who cooked it, later admi ed, “Froma
gastronomical view, it needs work.”
PETER GUEST
is a London-based journalist
who writes frequently on the environment.
He enjoys his spot at the top of the food chain.
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