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47
DUCASSE ON
PARISIAN EATS
The legendary chef reveals four of
his favourite foodie destinations
FOR SOMETHING TRADITIONAL
FONTAINE DE MARS (
ABOVE
)
Taking its recipes from the south-west
of France, this kitchen serves rustic fare
such as cassoulet brimming with Tarbes
beans. Red chequered tablecloths and tiled
floors add to the authentic vibe. Ducasse
recommends the eggs poached
in Madiran wine.
129 Rue Saint Dominique;
fontainedemars.com
FOR SOMETHING UNIQUE
RACINES
Organic wine is served here alongside plates
of home-grown ingredients. Although the
concept may be modern, the setting is far
from futuristic – Racines is in the oldest
arcade in the Grand Boulevards area.
8 Passage des Panoramas;
tel: +33 (0)1 4013 0641
FOR THE BESTVALUE
CHARTIER
Simple bistro cooking in an opulent setting,
where the bouillon has always been the
signature dish. The reasonably pricedmenu
offers canteen-style dishes and your order is
scrawled on the paper tablecloths.
7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre;
bouillon-chartier.com
FOR THE BEST BREAD
LAMOULIN DE LAVIERGE
Buy a baguette here for a picnic with a
difference. The oven here is wood fired, the
bread is sourdough and the baker, according
to Ducasse, is “the greatest on God’s earth”.
105 Rue Vercingétorix;
tel: +33 (0)1 4543 0984
FEATURES
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PARIS
of the moist, tubular molluscs, “and pull. The bit you
need will come away quite naturally.”
This is a slimy, fiddly business that requires a lack
of squeamishness – and I absolutely love it, having
been to too many cookery classes where you just throw
pre-prepared ingredients into a pan. This is very much
hands-on and we’re under expert guidance. Morat
has worked for Ducasse since 2001, in restaurants in
Monaco and Tokyo, before embarking on teaching.
Throughout the class, he demands – with tongue
in cheek – that we respond to his instructions with
urgent calls of “Oui, chef!” There is never any doubt
that this is a cookery school designed by a restaurant
chef, rather than a home cook.
The fish dish we’re working on is from the menu of
Ducasse’s three Michelin-starred London restaurant at
The Dorchester. It’s a winning combination of poached
sea bass on a bed of celeriac that has been slowly
“Our goal is that students can
recreate the dishes at home”