ARGENTINA
pesoplummeted invalue.Youngdesigners
needed spaces, and rents inPalermoViejo
were cheap then. That’snot the case these
days, but onweekends, bars surrounding
PlazaSerrano, theheart of PalermoSoho,
become impromptumarketswheredesign-
ers setup temporary shops. Anydayof the
weekyoucanalsovisitDiseñoArgandPla-
netaBs.As., designer incubator spaces run
byClaudiaJara,aformerfashion journalist
andbeautyqueen. Alwayswitha cigarette
inhand,Jararecountshowsheestablished
apresence in thearea in2003. “Iwould in-
terviewyoungdesignersoutof school, and
theywould say, ‘But Claudia, we have no
place to show our designs.’ This iswhere
wecome in.”
At night the entirePalermoViejo area
dazzleswithcandlelitrestaurants.Myfavor-
itesareanything runbychefGermánMar-
titegui, whohas three: thenightclub-like
CasaCruzRestaurant, thenewlyrenovated
Scandinavian-inspiredOlsen, andTegui
Restaurant, a small, intimate spacewith
onlya scatteringof tablesbehind its secre-
tive,grati-covereddoor.Duringdinnerat
Tegui,Martiteguitellsmeeachrestaurantis
foradierentkindofperson,andadierent
mood.CasaCruzisshowy,aplacetobeseen;
Tegui, tohideaway;Olsen, to feelathome.
Forvisitorsonabudget,BuenosAires is
aplacetoenjoy.Myfavoritepleasure iswan-
deringAvenidaLibertador,apark-linedbou-
levardstretchingthroughnorthernBuenos
Aires.TheBuenosAiresZoo, theMuseode
BellasArtesandothermust-seesarealong
theroute, includingCementeriode laReco-
leta, EvaPerón’sfinal home. All along the
stroll isevidencethatBuenosAires isamix
of tranquility,beautyandenergy.
B
UENOSAIRES
is the capital of this40
million-strongnation,butthevastness
andbeautyofPatagoniamakeanextended
tripworthwhile.Crossedonmotorcycleby
a youngCheGuevera and famously chron-
icledby authorBruceChatwin, Patagonia
stretches from theAndes through rolling
lands spillingback into anAtlanticOcean
traversedbymigratingwhales, all of it dot-
tedwithstunningglacial lakesandrivers.
IfyoucanonlyseeoneplaceinPatagonia,
head toGlaciarPeritoMoreno, themost fa-
mousofthecountry’sglaciers,setinitsown
national park.Most tourists stay innearby
Calafate, a town resemblinganovergrown
stagecoach stop inaJohnWayneWestern.
PalermoHollywoodowesitsnametothe
concentrationof broadcastingenterprises
clustered there, explains Luciana, whose
oce is in theneighborhood. But, she says,
these trendy streetshaveplentyof restau-
rantsandbars. “It’soneof thecity’sgastro-
nomiccenters,withporteñafood,likesteaks,
andeverythingelse—Peruvian, Japanese,
French, evenorganic. If I’mnot checking
out anew restaurant, I like tobrowse the
fashionableshops.”
Palermo Soho, on the other hand, re-
sembles tonyLondonorNewYork and ex-
emplifiesArgentineresilience,havingrisen
from the ashes of the 2001 peso collapse.
OnceequaltotheU.S.dollar, theArgentine
52
APRIL 15, 2012
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