show,aradioshowandawineblog,CatasEnVivo
(
).
The decor of Aldo’sVinoteca is streamlined
modern, cream lacquer shelves slinking across
walls,groaningunderamind-bogglingwineselec-
tion.Red,moody light glowsaswaitstastroll in
crisp,timelessblack-and-white, long-apronedout-
fits,bottlesinhand.BuiltintotheartdecoMoreno
Hotel BuenosAires, the restaurant remindsme
of 1930sEurope. Aldo’s goal is a restaurantwith
peoplewearingeverything from jeans toHermés
suits and ties. “Our idea is toput thewine in the
perfectplace, on the table,witha friend,”hesays,
pushinghisglassesupashisheadturns,checking
everything inmotion.
Aldo’s is anod to thepast, yet it’s everything
modernaboutBuenosAires.That’swhyI lovethe
surroundingneighborhoodof SanTelmo, espe-
cially at sunset, when the stucco curlicues and
marblemaidensofthedistrict’s19th-centurycor-
nicesglowgoldenagainst thegrowing twilight. It
wasBuenosAires’wealthiestneighborhooduntil
the1870syellow-feverepidemiccausedthosewith
means toflee.Close to theports, SanTelmosoon
filledwithstruggling immigrants.Todaythearea
is gentrifying, but decayed charms remainamid
W
OODYALLEN
rarely comes tomind inBuenosAires, but
he’smy first thoughtwhen ImeetAldoGraziani.With
thick,blacknerdyglassesandunrulyhair,heownsAldo’s
Vinoteca, BuenosAires’ newestwine restaurant. IfWoodyAllen represents
a certainera’s JewishNewYork, Aldo represents today’s Italian-Argentine
porteño,atermlocalsusetoidentifythemselvesasresidentsofthecapital.He’s
warm, a littlecrazy, a loverof foodandwine, andevenamama’sboy. “I rana
restaurantwithmymother,”hetellsme,nostalgicallymentioningaplacethey
ownedwhenhewasyounger.
Aldoused tobevicepresident of theAsociaciónArgentinadeSommeliers,
butwith the restaurant itbecame toomuch.He’s still overloaded,withaTV
CLOCKWISEFROMTHISPAGE:
Duskon
thePlazadeMayo; anenergetic street
performance inSanTelmo; PlazaDorrego
inSanTelmo; restaurateurAldoGraziani
INSET:
Nightlife inSanTelmoat Territorio
Bar yProvisiones
44
APRIL 15, 2012
AA.COM/AMERICANWAY
