JANUARY 1 2008
AMERICANWAY 45
IfYouGo
HOWTOGETTHERE:
AmericanAirlines has dailynonstop service toRomewithflights fromNewYork/JFKandChicago,
and theyoffer service toVenice in cooperationwith codesharepartnersBritishAirways (viaLondon)andBrusselsAirlines (via
Brussels). FromVenice, it’s a straight-shot two-hourdrive on theA-4autostradadue east. Trains also connectTrieste toVenice,
Milan,Rome, andmost othermajor Italian cities.
WHERETOSTAY:
The top choice inTrieste is the
GrandHotelDuchi d’Aosta
), situatedon
the edge of the sweepingPiazzadell’Unitàd’Italia. The staff is extraordinary, and there’snothingat allwrongwith the
Harry’s
Grill
inside. Otherwise,
Hotel Continentale
) is charming, convenient to the shoppingdistrict, and
less expensive thanGrandHotelDuchi d’Aosta.
WHERE TO EAT ANDDRINK:
To eat just-caught branzino or orata while taking in the panorama of the Gulf of Trieste,
there’s no better locale than
Slauko
(011-39-040-225393), inContovello, above town. In the center of Trieste,
Al Bagatto
(011-
39-040-301771) is a tour de force in preparation, expert service, and tremendous regional wines, though the nearby
Ai Fiori
(011-39-040-300-633)wouldbeanyothercity’s topchoice.Go to
GranMalabar
(011-39-040-636266)onPiazzaSanGiovanni
to sample the area’s bestwines on both sides of the borderwhile digesting a slice of the city’s daily life. EnotecaNanut (011-39-
040-360642) is theperfectrespite fromahardmorning’sworthof shoppingand is theplace tobuyanunfussy lunchandabottle
ofFriulianwine to take backhome.
WHATTODRINK:
Trieste is in theCarsoD.O.C.wine zoneof Italy’sFriuliVeneziaGiulia region.Threeunusual varietalswell
worth tryingare thehearty red
Terrano
(a cousin to the refosco, found elsewhere inFriuli)and these twowhites:
Malvasia Istri-
ana
, adrywine thatmarries perfectlywith the area’s seafood; and
Vitovska
, anagreeablyacidicwinewitha sagelike bouquet.
TheMalvasia of Edi Kante is widely considered the best, while Zidarichmakes an exemplary Vitovska. Across the border in
Slovenia, JoskoRencel hasnopeerwhen it comes toTerrano. (OrChardonnay or SauvignonBlanc.) It’s axiomatic that Friuli
produces the country’s bestwhitewines. The offerings ofVenica&Venica,RobertoPicech, FrancoToros,DarioRaccaro, EdiKe-
ber, andSlovenia’sSimˇciˇcprovideampleproof.
