The Indian-African Sufis of Ahmedabad

The Sidis live together in Ahmedabad, in a community of homes surrounding a small courtyard and shrine. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The Sidis live together in Ahmedabad, in a community of homes surrounding a small courtyard and shrine. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

AHMEDABAD—In the city of Ahmedabad in the North West of India lives an unexpected community of Sufi Muslims: the Sidis. Originally from East Africa, different waves of immigration brought the Sidis across the Indian Ocean over the last 600 years. They’ve integrated into Indian society but have also remained a singular community with its own rituals and traditions. Darcy Coulter and Adélie Pontay met with one of their oldest members and a leader of the community. Listen and scroll through pictures below.

Rumanaben Sidi is called grandmother by those in Ahmedabad’s Sidi community. As one of the oldest members of the community, she is often asked to help settle disputes. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

Rumanaben Sidi is called grandmother by those in Ahmedabad’s Sidi community. As one of the oldest members of the community, she is often asked to help settle disputes. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

Rumanaben shows an old photo of her family members, including her mother and father. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

Rumanaben shows an old photo of her family members, including her mother and father. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The Sidi Sayied Mosque is known for the carved windows depicting a bodhi tree and a palm tree intertwined, which is the unofficial symbol of the city of Ahmedabad.  Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The Sidi Sayied Mosque is known for the carved windows depicting a bodhi tree and a palm tree intertwined, which is the unofficial symbol of the city of Ahmedabad. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

Rumanaben has a small shrine in her home where she reads her Quran. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

Rumanaben has a small shrine in her home where she reads her Quran. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

Here, Rumanaben lights incense, pours water for the saint, and reads. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

Here, Rumanaben lights incense, pours water for the saint, and reads. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

There is a shrine in the center of the community, where they venerate the saint Bava Gor. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

There is a shrine in the center of the community, where they venerate the saint Bava Gor. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

Rumanaben shows one of the niches in the walls of the shrine, where the Sidis light lamps every evening. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

Rumanaben shows one of the niches in the walls of the shrine, where the Sidis light lamps every evening. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The Sidis are known and studied for their music traditions that have come with them from their African roots. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The Sidis are known and studied for their music traditions that have come with them from their African roots. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The Sidi community, according to Rumanaben, makes a point of teaching their children about their ancestors from Africa. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The Sidi community, according to Rumanaben, makes a point of teaching their children about their ancestors from Africa. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The Sidis maintain very remnants of their African heritage after having been in India 600 years. They wear Indian clothes, eat Indian dishes, and identify as Indian. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The Sidis maintain very remnants of their African heritage after having been in India 600 years. They wear Indian clothes, eat Indian dishes, and identify as Indian. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The niches in the walls of the community shrine are memorials, with dried flowers and lamps behind the curtains. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

The niches in the walls of the community shrine are memorials, with dried flowers and lamps behind the curtains. Photo by Darcy Coulter.

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