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A testament to Singapore’s rich cultural heritage,
the eastern neighborhood of Joo Chiat — a
perennially fashionable hotbed of Peranakan
patrimony with a multi-ethnic population —
remains close to its roots. Arwen Joyce leads us on
a walkabout around the colorful suburb
S
trolling through the back
alleys of Joo Chiat, it is not
uncommon to pass a bright
pink house, a wall covered
in pastel-patterned tiles or
a shop overflowing with characterful
antiques. In this ethnically rich
neighborhood on Singapore’s east
coast, the roots of the colorful
Peranakan culture run deep.
This distinctive way of life began to
develop in the 15th century as Chinese
traders adopted local customs and
married into prominent Malay families.
Also known as Straits-born Chinese,
they developed their own patois, style
of dress, design aesthetic and cuisine.
In the early 20th century, the coconut
plantations along Singapore’s east
coast began to give way to seaside
bungalows and the neighborhood
named after self-made businessman
Chew Joo Chiat began to take shape.
You can still find plenty of charming
shophouses, local coffee shops and
antiques dealers in this refreshingly
slow-paced enclave, which is just
a short drive from the city center.
Of course, the usual hip cafés, sleek
malls and international options are
creeping onto the scene as well. For
the most part though, Joo Chiat — the
traditional heart of the broader Katong
area, which was named for an exotic
sea turtle — retains its old-world
charm and offers visitors to Singapore
an absorbing insight into the island’s
unique cultural heritage.
After snacking and shopping your
way through Joo Chiat, veer off the
main street to experience some of the
neighborhood’s quieter pockets. For
a full appreciation of the Peranakan
penchant for flamboyant design, pay
a visit to the “Painted Ladies” of Koon
Seng Road, a row of well-preserved
terraced houses dating from 1935
that exemplify the homes built by
wealthy Peranakan merchants. Their
original owners may not have lived
to see Singapore celebrate 50 years
of independence, but the ladies are
as brightly colored as ever and, along
with their Peranakan neighborhood,
are showing no signs of fading quietly
into Singapore’s history. Going for a
walkabout? Check out these highlights.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY
URBAN SKETCHERS SINGAPORE
