hemi culture
TRAVEL ESSAY
she ended up. I looked at amap later, andmy best guess
isBury St.Edmunds.
This would have been a pretty funny practical joke,
except it wasn’t.The simple truth is, I got my compass
points ina twist,as I almost alwaysdowhen trying to find
my way around London. Is East Barnet in the north or
the southof the city?Or theeast?Andwhat aboutHerne
Hill? Is that even a place? Is it a song?
This navigational ineptitudemight seem odd, given the
fact that I grewup inLondon,but Ihave an excuse.Until a
fewyearsagoI lived inSpain,andbeforethatI lived inDubai,
andbeforethatI lived inBoston.Infact,Ihadspentmyentire
adult life—almost30years—asanexpat.ThenIcamehome
anddiscovered that Ididn’t knowwhereHornchurch is.
I’ll probably never have to go toHornchurch,but I do
have togo tootherplaces.Theotherday,Ihad togo to the
Holborn tube station, in the seethingmiddayheat,witha
coupleofAmerican friends in tow.About45minutes into
our five-block trek,my friends were openly questioning
our route,which had twice led us around the perimeter
of theBritishMuseum. In the end, I had to stop and ask
an elderlySikhgentleman,whopointed atHolborn tube
station and said,“There.”
There is, however, an upside to my situation, which
is that I get to experience my hometown as if I were a
foreigner—or, at the very least, someone who’s been
hit on the head with an anvil. Either way,my journeys
tend to feelmore likeexcursions thanchores,which ismore
than I can say for themajorityofmy fellowLondoners.
There are times when, looking at the people around
me on theNumber 11bus—which goes past theHouses
of Parliament,Trafalgar Square,CharingCross and St.
Paul’sCathedral—Iwonder if there isn’t a stigmaattached
to lookingout thewindow.There’s a kindof formality in
the way these passengers study their devices, as if to do
otherwisewouldmark them as a bunchof naïfs.
Me, I celebratemy naïf-ness. I have no shame.Every
time the 11 passes Big Ben, I cranemy neck to see the
top. I take pictures of the doorways on Fleet Street,
gaze dreamily at theRoyalCourts of Justice.Or I’ll just
“THERE ISANUPSIDETOMY
SITUATION,WHICH ISTHAT IGETTO
EXPERIENCEMYHOMETOWNAS IF
IWEREAFOREIGNER—OR,ATTHE
VERYLEAST, SOMEONEWHO’SBEEN
HITONTHEHEADWITHANANVIL.”
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