hemi culture
TASTEMAKERS
F
ueledby themoderndrive to get
back to our farmhouse roots, the
fermentation craze has brought
housemade pickles andprobiotic-rich
sauerkraut tomenus across the coun-
try.Now, the trend is hitting the bar,
as mixologists experiment with
healthful fermented and cultured
sips—effervescent brews that get their
fizz frommicroorganisms, likebacteria
oryeast,ratherthancarbonation.Here,a
primeronsodaalternatives thathealth
nutsarebuzzingover.
—LORASHINN
Shrub
Fruits and vegetables are fer-
mentedwithsugarandvinegarforspicy,
sweet,or tart flavors.
TRYIT
AtSanDiego’sZymology21,the
“shrub flight”consists of five test tubes
containing flavors like pomegranate-
beetandblueberry-apple-honey,served
withwater,soda,or champagne.
Kombucha
This tart,vinegary tonic is
made by fermenting teawith a gelati-
nous “mother” or SCOBY, short for
“symbioticcultureofbacteriaandyeast.”
SourPower
Fermentedand culturedbrewsoffer anaturallyfizzy
alternative to soda
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PHOTOGRAPHYBYLUISGARCIA
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DECEMBER2015
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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
LABLIBATIONS
The shrubflight
at SanDiego’s
Zymology21
BOARDINGPASS
Thirsty?CrafthouseCocktails’MoscowMule isnowoffered
onUnited-operatedNorthandCentralAmericaflights, andBuffaloTraceKentucky
StraightBourbonWhiskey isnowavailableworldwide. Seepage146 fora listof
United’sonboardbeverageofferings.
TRY IT
Freshkombucha ison tapatThe
FermentationBaratHealdsburgShed,
inHealdsburg,California.
Switchel
Once popular with
colonial-era farmers, switchels are
madewith vinegar andwater flavored
withmolasses,ginger,or brown sugar.
TRY IT
Bartenders atLouisville’sProof
onMain swap in verjus (unripe grape
juice) for the traditional vinegar and
combine itwith rosemary,ginger, and
sorghum in theProof Switchel.
Lassi
This creamy Indian drink—
served salty or sweet—can be made
with yogurt or buttermilk enhanced
with fruits,herbs,and spices.
TRY IT
Themango lassi atNashville’s
ChauhanAle&MasalaHouse ismade
with freshmango pulp, yogurt, sugar,
andmilk and servedover ice.
Laban Ayran
This chilled, frothy
yogurt drink fromTurkey is often
flavoredwithmint andgarlic.
TRY IT
NewYork’s Souk& Sandwich
pairshousemadeyogurtwithdriedmint,
fresh-pressed garlic, and kosher salt.
GingerBeer
Aspicydrink thatgets its
fizz froma“gingerbug,”a fermentedor
bacterial starter(acritter innameonly).
TRY IT
House-brewed, non-alcoholic
gingerbeer ismadewithorganicginger
rootatBeLoveRestaurant inVictoria,
BritishColumbia.
Kefir
Originally made with camel’s
milk in theCaucasus, this yogurtlike
drink involves infusinganimalornon-
animal milk with kefir grains (small
globs of bacteria and yeast).
TRY IT
The Kefiry in Sebastopol,
California,offers flavors such asTulsi
Rose, Lemon Gingerale, Guayusa
Kola,andTurmeric.
Kvass
This fermented potion hails
fromEasternEuropeand is tradition-
allymade from rye breador beets and
flavoredwith freshor dried fruit.
TRY IT
At SanFrancisco’s BarTartine,
thesavoryrye-beetversionofthis drink
is enhancedwith caraway, fennel, and
dill and served straight up or with a
pickle-brine chaser.
