CONTEMPORARIES
OneofBandaul’s
sculptures from the
Digestion
series
FAHTHAI
39
CLOSEUP
battambang arts
The ancient kings built
temples, spires and gilded
wats across the plains of
Battambang, too – one
of the best is the 12th-
century
Phnom Banan
,
around 20km south of
the city. Intricate lintels
depicting the Churning of
the Ocean of Milk can be
seen at the 11th-century
Wat Ek Phnom
, which is
closer to town.
Visit
Sala Khaet
, the old
Governor’s Residence.
In 1905, the last Thai
“Lord Governor”, Chhum
Aphaiwong, hired Italian
architects to erect this
sweeping European-
style palace. When it
was sold back to the
French administration, it
underwent a number of
restorations but lost some
of its lavish features.
Cambodia is a country
where great sadness
lingers behind the smiles.
About 6km north of
town is the sombre
Wat
Somrong Knong
, a
pagoda that served as a
prison during the years
of the Khmer Rouge
genocide. Next to it now
sits the
Well of Shadows
,
a glass memorial to
the country’s genocide
victims that’s filled with
skulls and bones. Just as
harrowing are the killing
caves at craggy, limestone
mountain
Phnom
Sampeau
, about 12km
south-west of Battambang.
But those who summit the
peak are rewarded with the
sight of a glittering pagoda
and remarkable views of
rice fields stretching out to
the horizon.
The
norry
, or
bamboo
train
, is an exhilarating
ride on a rickety toboggan
through the countryside
on the old line to Phnom
Penh.
Beyond
the arts
“What has performing taught me? I can show an audience
that Cambodia has a rich arts culture, that Cambodian kids are
strong and resilient! That we can overcome adversity,” she says.
“Phare has built the arts up again here from scratch and they’ve
allowed people like me to travel abroad, make connections,
make something. You cannot expect too much from Phare
though – they can teach you but we’re all responsible for
finding our own way. You can’t rely on an NGO or any other
organisation.”
The legacy of Phare can be seen throughout the city. Take,
for example, the year-old Jaan Bai restaurant on Street 2 – the
name is Khmer for “rice bowl”. One of its walls is adorned
with a psychedelic mural whose creators include Phare
graduates Long Kosal and Khchao Touch along with self-
taught painter Chov Theanly, an emerging talent. Bangkok-
based celebrity chef David Thompson was involved in the
set-up and menu design.
And then there’s the growing number of galleries and art
spaces sprouting up citywide. Studio Arts on Street 1½ is a
gallery managed by Phare graduate Sokhom Roeun. Housed in
an airy old shophouse, it’s home to large bamboo sculptures,
huge canvases and painting workshops. Studio Arts is next
door to Kinyei, a social enterprise café with probably the best
coffee in Cambodia. Elsewhere, Choco d’Art is the place for
a silky chocolate mousse. Up-and-coming artist Pen Robit’s
Jackson Pollock-style drip paintings decorate the walls. He’s
yet another Phare graduate. At the artist-run collective space
Check out our
destination guide
on page 119
and book
your flights at
bangkokair.com
“Cambodia is a traditional
country and this idea of
spreading legs, flipping, a lot of
physical touching – especially
for women –was frowned upon.
That’s prettymuch completely
changed. I’mproudwe’ve
broken down some barriers”
