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celebratedliving.com
WINTER 2011
BElgIum:
BeyondBeer
Known for its variety of barley and rye, the
European destination boasts vibrant cities
and historic significance that can be
enjoyed year-round.
BY THOMAS BEDELL
S
Standing in themiddleof theaptlynamedgrand
Place, the central squareofBrussels, is tobe sur-
roundedbyarchitectural splendor spanning thehisto-
ryofEurope, theoldguildhousesbespeaking the
wealthof themedievalmerchant class.myeye is
quicklydrawn to theBaroqueandFlemishdecorative
touchesof oneguildhouse inparticular— 10grand
Place, a 1698buildinggleaming ingold leaf. But
there’s theaddedpleasure inknowing that this is the
last of itskind still serving itsoriginal function, as the
BelgianBrewers’guildHouse.
It’sfitting thatBelgiumhasapatronsaintof brew-
ing—ArnoldofSoissons,who invarious legendscould
createanendlesssupplyof beersimply throughprayer.
Since that’sneverworkedoutparticularlywell forme,
I like to returnasoftenaspossible to thecountry that
goesat itsbrewingwithmoreverve, complexity, idio-
syncrasy, and reverence thananyotheronearth.
Brussels, thecapital, isaworldly
spot in themiddleofBelgium.As the
seatof theEuropeanunionandNATO,
it’sahighlysophisticatedcity,andavis-
itingoenophilecanrightlyexpect to
finddeepandrefinedwine listshere
withoutdifficulty.Butbeer isking in
Belgium,and thebeer listsaremore
extensive,as thickasBibles insome in-
stances.Because theclimate ismoresuited tograinand
hop than thegrape,beerreignssupremeand isservedat
the tablehere thewaywine is inFrance.
“Actually,we still have trucks thatmakehome
deliveries,” saidmichelRusse, now retired from the
BrouwerijVanEecke inWatou. “Tendriversmake
about 1,000 stopsaday, likemilkmen.manyof the
smallerbreweries still do this.”
Severalyearsago, Icircumnavigated thecountryon
Left to right: Belgium
offers visitors a variety
of sites to enjoy: the
Bruges Canals; 10Grand
Place; and friendly
waiters serving beer,
theBelgium staple.
WWW.VISITFLANDERS.US (3)
