R
Six hours, eight loaves.Welcome to an intensive
artisanal baking class at the CIA (Culinary Institute
of America, that is).
BY ELAINE GLUSAC
fall 2009
celebratedliving.com
58
BreadMaking
BootCamp
COOKING
0800:Reporting fordutyatboot camp, I firsthit
themesshall.Blueberrymuffins, cheesyburri-
tos, softlyscrambledeggs, crispbacon, fluffy
french toast, andglistening fruit saladbracket
thebreakfastbuffet.When theCulinary Institute
ofamerica, themostprestigiouscookingschool
in thecountry, doesaboot camp, foodoverload is
aclearandpresentdanger.
The63-year-oldculinaryschool has turned
out suchcelebratedchefsasToddEnglish,Grant
achatz, andCatCora, andnowoffers laymen
keen toperfectandexpand theirskills theoppor-
tunity to train in“enthusiast”or“boot camp”
classes. Sessions range fromone to fivedaysat
its170-acrecampus, a formerJesuit seminary
some30milesupriverofWestPoint inNew
York’sbucolicHudsonValley.On thisparticular
Saturday, 250 fellow foodies joinme inavasthall
thatwasonce theorder’scathedral. It’sa fitting
setting forussupplicantswhohave left spouses,
children, and thefoodNetwork to indulgeour
weekend-warrior fantasiesof cooking likeapro.
0830:aplatoonofwhite-jacketed chefs files
into thebackof the church, each shoutingout
hisorherdivision. “Seafood, here!” “Italian
pronto!” “Desserts thisway!”The chefwhoyells
“artisanbaking” callsabandof 15 toattention.
ChefEricKastelmarchesusoff toBakeShop 6
wheremassivemixers,wheeled carts, andan
entirewall of convectionovens flanka central
U-shapedguardof butcher-block counters.
0845:ChefEric interrogateshischarges. “Why
doyouwant tobakebread?”hebarks. Imutter
that I likecrustandcan’tmake itathome. “Oh,
yesyoucan!”he roars, pacing thekitchenand
launching intoa lecture. “Baking isall about time
and temperature, timeand temperature.The
onlyway togetbetteratbreadbaking isbydoing
itanddoing it.”
“Baking”conjuresupMomandGrandma, both
