77
SOUTHKOREA
Iwent toSeoulonassignment in
January2014and feltawelcome
wistful shiver.Thecitywasascold
and frost-tingedas Iremembered. I
visitedChangdeokgungPalaceona
clear, blusterydaybut the imposing
entrancegateandcolorfulhalls,
with theirsoaring, paintedceilings,
didn’t feel familiar.Thecuisine,
on theotherhand, triggereda
treasure troveofmemories, such
asmy fatherdemonstratinghow to
cookbulgogi, orpreparemarinated
beef, ona tabletopgrill.Eatingwith
chopstickswasarequiredskill in
myhousehold, butmyseven-year-
oldselfwasflusteredby themetal
varietyused inSouthKorea.Sitting
alone inarestaurant, Ichuckled to
myselfaspickledkimchiandglass
noodlesaladslippedrepeatedly
frommygrasp.My fatherwould
nothavebeen impressed.
Myparentswere fondofJeju,
avolcanic islandanhour’sflight
southofBusan. In thesummer
of1986, thenewHyattRegency
was theonlyqualityhotel in town.
Itsmassive lobby featuredan ice
creamparlor; itsglasselevators
gavemymomvertigo.Weplayed
in thewavesonasandybeach
bookendedbyblack lavarock, and
explored lushparklandpeppered
with thatched-roofvillagesand
giantbasaltstatuesofmenwith
longearlobesandbulgingeyes.
Ihavenotyetreturned to
Jeju, partlybecause it’sa long
flight fromSingaporeand
partlybecause Isuspect itwill
beunrecognizable.The island
receivedaWorldCupstadium in
2001andUNESCOWorldHeritage
Sitestatus in2007.Resortsnow
dot theonce-barrenvolcaniccoast.
Evenscarier is thepossibility that it
will feelvery familiarand thatonce
I’veconfrontedmyJejughosts, this
processofsayinggoodbye tomy
fatheraroundAsiawillbecomplete.
In truth, Icrave thecomfortofhis
memoryasstronglyasever.Maybe
a fewmore trips toBangkokwill
help.
FIRSTPERSON
Left to right:The
author andhermother
onJeju island in
1986; posingonJeju’s
JungmunBeach
CebuPacificflies to 29
international destinations.
cebupacificair.com
