69
BANGKOK
Onasolitaryeveningstroll through
Bangkok, dormantchildhood
memories lie inwaitaroundevery
corner. Inavigate theemotional
minefieldhappily, looking forclues.
Anoldmansellingdriedsquid that’s
stretchedonracks looks faintly
recognizable.There’ssomething
familiarabout the icyblastescaping
throughashoppingmall’sgleaming
glassdoors, temporarilyslicingthrough
thedrenchinghumidity. Just then, a
cloudofbarbecuesmoke fromastreet
stallmixeswithcarexhaustand the
perfumeofblooming frangipani, and
I’m transportedback to1985.
Iamweaving throughacrowded
nightmarket, tightlyholdingmy
father’smeatyhand.Hebuysa
plasticbagofcold teaandsweetened
condensedmilk fromavendorwho
pokesastraw through theopeningand
seals itwitharubberband.Mydad
bendsdown,holdsout the treatand
sayswithasmile, “Whatdoyousay?” I
answer
“kopkhunka”
inmybestThai
accent, bowingslightlywithpalms
together,fingersextended.Thescene
evaporatesand I’m leftwith the feeling
that I’veseenaghost—andacraving
forThai iced tea.
Onseveralotheroccasionsduring
theweekend, thealchemyofBangkok’s
sightsandsmellsre-creates thismagic
trick.Aplateofmangostickyrice, the
goldfinialsona templeroof, abillboard
of thekingandqueen—allhave the
potential, in therightmoment, to
transportmeback tomychildhood.
My travelsaroundAsiaaremotivated
by thewanderlust I inherited frommy
fatherbutalsoby theneed toconfront
thesememoriesheadon, tocapture
themand tohold themclose.
Left to right:Theauthor,
her fatherAlanandher
younger sisterMaya
exploringJapan in 1986;
at a temple inBangkok;
anencounterwithan
elephant inThailand
