65
Fantastic treks
I purchased three woven mats, each with colorful,
geometric patterns, and I continue to marvel at the quality
of their handiwork and relish their sweet, grassy smell
Clockwise: rock
formations in
Marabut; mat
weavers of
Basey; the altar
and ceiling
of St Michael
the Archangel
Church in
Basey; the
church stands
on a hill, a
long-serving
watchtower for
the town
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Handmade
tikogmats and
a secluded
beach
DAY 1
Our first stop is Basey, Western
Samar, some 26km fromTacloban.
The scenic ride takes us across the
San Juanico Bridge, the longest in
the country at 2.6km. The bridge was
built in the 1960s, quickly proving
a boon to the local economy, and
though it sustained some damage
fromTyphoon Haiyan, it was quickly
repaired. It continues to offer passage
and a beautiful view of the San
Juanico Strait, the body of water that
separates Leyte fromSamar.
In the small, coastal town of Basey
(pronounced “Basai” or “Basay”), we
head straight to St Michael Church,
a 160-year old structure that’s said
to be among the best-preserved
churches in the Samar provinces.
Major parts were ravaged by the
storm, including the roof and ceiling,
but as with the San Juanico Bridge,
these have likewise been repaired.
We tour the church grounds and meet
several local kids. Here’s something I
now know for sure: no matter where
you are in the Philippines, whip
out a camera and kids will give you
their best, toothiest and most soul-
satisfying smiles.
At the local tourism office, we find
handicrafts on display, including
banigs
by the
paraglara
(weavers). Ron
Pecho, our liaison for this trip, tells
us that women weavers congregate
by the caves at the foot of the Basey
mountains during the day and weave
intricate, fragrant mats made out of
tikog
, a type of sedge grass that grows
abundantly in the area. Ideally, these
should be harvested, pounded flat, dried
and hand-dyed in the same place during
