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Presenting the past
In most of these ventures, he had
the help of his son, the crown prince
Indravarman. A giant tableau on
the eastern wall — painstakingly
reconstructed from the surrounding
rubble by archaeologists and local
volunteers — tells the epic story of
the king’s battles, with Indravarman
constantly by his side.
The eastern wall is just a fragment of
what once stood here; only about 300ft
of the original 1,300ft of sandstone
wall remain. This is our first stop in the
Banteay Chhmar complex; we climb
a short wooden staircase to the wall
platform and marvel at the expansive
sandstone panel before us, which
depicts an epic battle between the
Khmer and the Cham.
In the image, gigantic figures of
Jayavarman VII and Indravarman
oversee lines of Khmer soldiers as they
attack the Cham formations head-on.
As the action progresses from left
to right, the Cham break formation,
retreating to the safety of their lands
across a river. Bareheaded Khmer
chase down fleeing (and head-dressed)
Cham, who peer fearfully over their
shoulders.
Storied stones
Once we’re past the eastern wall,
getting to Banteay Chhmar’s
component parts requires a great deal
more agility and balance. Instead of
level ground or paved sandstone, we’re
traveling on jumbled blocks that litter
the ground, the remains of Banteay
Chhmar’s walls. The tumbled, skewed
blocks of sandstone bear witness to
centuries of neglect.
Rough it
HOWTO GET THERE
About 160km of highway separate
Siem Reap and Banteay Chhmar.
Cambodia’s public transport system
does not cover this stretch so you’ll
have to book a ride either through the
Banteay Chhmar Community Based
Tourism Office or via associated tour
agencies.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Banteay Chhmar is too distant for
a day trip. Stay overnight in one of
the villages surrounding the temple
for a more well-rounded experience.
Homestays can be booked via the
Community Based Tourism Office.
You’ll crash on plain beds in ordinary
homes with no air conditioning.
Overnight stays cost US$7 per person
per night. It’s US$2 for breakfast.
Banteay Chhmar Community Based
Tourism Office, tel: +855 (0)97 516
5533,
ON CHANEL: TOP BY TOPSHOP; LACE COVER-UP AND CARGO PANTS BY AMERICAN
EAGLE OUTFITTERS; NECKLACE AND BRACELET BY PROMOD
