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Some claimthat chicken-fried steak
was invented in Texas in the 19th
century, when a Czech or German
immigrant—no one’s sure which—
swapped beef for veal in his everyday
schnitzel. Others believe it debuted
later, in 1911, when greasy-spoon
cook Jimmy Don Perkins confused
two orders for one, combining steak
and fried chicken to create a bizarre
hybrid that took.
However it started, Dallas residents
are today so enamored of chicken-
fried food that local restaurateurs
have begun applying the treatment
to everything from quail eggs to
mushrooms to pot roast. The mania
has brought the technique to even
themost high-end restaurant menus:
Chicken-fried lobster tail is among the
most popular items that chef Dean
Fearing serves at his namesake res-
taurant, Fearing’s, inThe Ritz-Carlton.
Even thedirt-cheaporiginal hasgotten
an upgrade at the tonyNeighborhood
Services Tavern, where the chef has
traded traditional cube steak for rib-
eye served over horseradish mash.
And to the panic of poultry every-
where, there are still places where
you can find “chicken-fried chicken,”
which is different from regular fried
chicken in that ... oh, nevermind.—J.C.
ingredients,” says founding partner
Leonard Firestone.
The first of that homegrown
bourbon went into barrels in March,
and Firestone and his partner, former
finance man Troy Robertson, are hop-
ing it will be ready to bottle in the next
two years. In the meantime they’ll be
showing off their blending skills in
their first official product. Capped in
boot-leather scraps and called TX, it’s
a mixture of whiskeys imported from,
well, Kentucky. —J.C.
NO HARM, NO FOWL
Left, chicken-fried lobster surf and turf
at Fearing’s; inset, chef (and adventurous
chicken-fryer) Dean Fearing
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