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FOOD&DRINK
PLAYING
WITHFIRE
A Texas whiskey producer
takes on Kentucky for
the bourbon crown
They say the indigenous
grain, water and climate
make Kentucky the only
birthplace of good
bourbon. A few
Texans, however,
beg to differ. Firestone &
Robertson, which opened in Fort
Worth this spring, is betting big
on the promise of Texas
terroir.
The first whiskey producer in
the north of the state—and
Texas’ fifth overall—it’s the
only distillery using Texas
yeast culled from the state
tree, the pecan. “We’ve
got a very distinctly Texas
product—aged in this
climate, using only Texas
Chicken-frying ste
ak is surely among
the most unusual of Texas cooking
traditions. To do it, you need beef,
seasoned flour, oil and a pan. You don’t
need a chicken, and you don’t need any
chicken products. You can chicken-fry
everything in your pantry even if there isn’t
a chickenbetween your house andMississippi.
Such is the genius of chicken-frying.
THEWHOLE
ENCHILADA
Dallas restaurateur Monica
Greene wants folks to know
there’s more toMexican than
tacos and burritos
ONE OF THE BEST
things about Mexican
food is its adaptability—the fact that you
can modify the basic premise of the taco
or the burrito to accommodate almost any
filling. But what of the humble enchilada?
Saucy and stuffed with all sorts of tooth-
some ingredients, it somehowmissed out
on the grand universalization of Mexican
food. Until, that is, Mexico City–born
restaurateur Monica Greene opened Best
Enchiladas Ever, which may be the coun-
try’s first “enchiladeria,” aword its colorful
owner insists she made up. “I Googled it
and found nothing,” she says.
Already well known for Monica’s Aca y
Alla, aTex-Mex spot in theDallas neighbor-
hoodofDeepEllum, Greenehopes her first
BEE, in Oak Cliff, will eventually give rise
to a full-fledged chain. She’s even devised
a cute logo, a cartoon bee in a sombrero, in
preparation for the nationwide rollout. “It
canbe theChipotleof enchiladas,” she says.
Like that fast-casual behemoth, BEE
features amix-and-matchmenu, allowing
patrons to customize their orders with
fillings like chicken
tinga
and tilapia Vera-
cruz. But with a choice of five wrappers,
nine fillings and 10 sauces, the options
can seem pretty overwhelming. “There
are 1,100 possible combinations,” Greene
says proudly. —J.C.
THAT’S AWRAP!
A chicken
tinga
enchilada
with spicy chipotle
crema
at BEE
Ba er Up!
Chicken and steak aren’t the only
things that are chicken-fried in
Texas these days