Contents
Inside thismonth’s issue... Pickadestinationandoff yougo
#155
NOVEMBER 2014
030
015
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EVERYTHING YOU
NEED TO KNOW
ABOUT THE 134
PLACES WE FLY TO
DESTINATIONS
110 – 142
VIEWPOINTS
079 – 100
ON NEW HOTELS,
RESTAURANTS,
BARS, BUSINESS AND
TECHNOLOGY
THE MANUAL
011 – 033
YOUR ESSENT IAL
HOW-TO GUIDE TO
EXPLORING THE
NETWORK THIS MONTH
0 0 5
NOVEMBER ’S BIG
STORIES – LONGER
READS TO EXPAND
YOUR HORI ZONS
THE FEATURES
035 – 072
026
092
048
024
023
019
THE
MANUAL
im viadukt
isn’t
yourusual
shoppingstreet.
Tucked inside the
archesofa 19th
century railway
bridge, it’s the
antithesisof the
modernmall:aparadeof independent
shops,chain-free restaurantsand
Markthalle ImViadukt, thecity’sfirst
covered food-and-producemarket.Since
opening in2010, it’sbeenoneof themain
draws forvisitors toZürich’s rapidly
gentrifying5thdistrict, the former
manufacturingzonearoundHardbrücke
railwaystation.Thehodgepodgeofvintage
furnitureshops,shabby-chicbarsand
organic-cheesesellersmeansawander
heregivesa rareglimpseof thecity’smore
bohemianside.Whatareyouwaiting for?
Once the largestSwisscity’smanufacturingdistrict, thiszonearound theold
railwayarchesnowprovidesanaltogethermoreboutiqueexperience
231Limmatstrasse
THEBRITISH
CHEESECENTRE
More than 17,000kgofBritish
cheesefinds itsway toZürich
every year, thanks toMichael
Jones,who’sbeenflogging
fromagehere since2007.Pair
ahunkofvintageCheddarwith
oneofhisexcellentcraftbeers.
DeadPonyClub,anyone?
britishcheese.ch
231Limmatstrasse
BERGUNDTAL
According toownerAndrás
Németh, “Food isbeautiful.”
Hishandmade,all-Swiss
productscertainlyare.Think
syrupmade from local roses,
honey fromZürich’s rooftop
beehivesanddelicious
chocolates fromAarau that the
QueenMumused toenjoy.
berg-tal.ch
LOCAL
FLAVOUR
BergundTal, in the
Markthalle,sells
specialitysausages
andsalami fromallover
Switzerland.Theowner’s
favourite isdriedwild-
boarsalamisourced
fromSessa, fromCHF6
(€5) forone.
14.
TAKEAWANDER
THROUGHZURICH’S
INDUSTRIEQUARTIER
WORDS
CHANTAL PANOZZO
PHOTOGRAPHY
TIM E WHITE
STREET VIEW
31Viaduktstrasse
SENIORDESIGN
FACTORY
DesignerBenjaminMoser ison
amission: tomakepeople feel
greataboutgrowingold.That’s
whyhisshopofferssolutions
forourageingpopulation in the
formofbeautifulcanes,chairs
thatare the rightheight forany
ageandblackquinoa,which
theoldestmanwhoever lived
issaid tohaveeatendaily.
senior-design.ch
WHO’SBEHIND
THECOUNTER?
43Viaduktstrasse
KOMPLEMENTAIR
RahelBrunneraims tobe
different. “I try to focuson
thingsyouwon’tfind in
departmentstores,”says
theownerof thison-trend
clothingandaccessories
shop.Her inspirationcomes
from frequent fashion-show
attendanceandalways
keepinga lookout fornew
labels. “Ibuywhat I like,”she
explains,pickingoutbags
bySwissbrandQwstion,
scarvesby Jean-Jacques
RogersandshoesbyDanish
companyBlackLily.
komplementair.ch
Merchandise forsharpening
mindsandbodies include
stresseggs,whichhelpbuild
handand forearmmuscle,
andPlayshapeswooden
pictureblocks.
HoookedZpagetti is the
latestcoolproduct for
craftyhands:made from
recycledT-shirts, itcomes in
heapsofcolours forchunky
crochetingandknitting.
THESHELFIE
TheSeniorDesign
Factory stocksproducts
thatprove it’spossible
toagegracefully
031
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10/10/2014 10:53
PARADISE
ON
EARTH?
Theancient townofTaroudantcould
wellbeMorocco’sbest-keptwinter
secret, says
GavinMcOwan
–andnot
justbecause it’shome to thecountry’s
mostbeguiling riad
FROMLEFT
Taroudant’s 16th-centurycitywalls;
thegardensofeco-friendly riadDaral
Hossoun,designedby landscapearchitects
EricOssartandArnaudMauriere
067
066
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10/10/2014 11:02
By rights,RealOviedoshouldn’tbe
withus.Twoyearsago, theAsturian
footballclubwason thebrinkof
financial ruin.Butwhen thesituation
seemedat itsmostbleak,aglobal
communityofsupportersdugdeep
in theirpockets tosave theclub.
Could thisbe theultimatesporting
Cinderellastory?MarkBailey
investigatesPhotographybyBen
Roberts
Thepath toglory
Saving
Oviedo
By rights,RealOviedoshouldn’tbewithus.
Twoyearsago, theAsturian footballclubwason the
brinkoffinancial ruin,butwhen thesituationseemedat
itsmostbleak,aglobalcommunityofsupportersdug
deep in theirpockets tosave theday.Could this
be theultimatesportingCinderellastory?
WORDS
MARKBAILEY
PHOTOGRAPHY
BENROBERTS
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10/10/2014 10:51
THE
MANUAL
Q&A
whether he’s dressing
downLadyGaga for
wearing fur,hammeringBarackObamaover
hisgay-rightspolicyorfightingvociferously for
Scottish independence,TheGoodWifeactor
AlanCumminghasneverbeenafraid to speakhis
mind.Givenhis track record for shooting from
the lip, itcomesas little surprise thathisnew
book,NotMyFather’sSon, isanopenandhonest
memoirwith someextraordinary twists. Its release
followsa tumultuous fewyears for theentertainer,
duringwhichhenotonlydiscoveredhismaternal
grandfatherdiedwhileplayingRussian roulette,but
alsohad todealwitha shocking revelation fromhis
abusivedad.Nowonderhispolicy,ashe reveals, is
alwaysbetterout than in…
Yournewbook isalreadywinning fans for its
no-punches-pulled revelations.Was itcathartic
towrite?
“Yes, in someways thebookwas like therapy for
meand I learneda lotaboutmyselfwriting it.For
instance, itwasaneye-opener that Ihavemental
illnessonboth sidesofmy family. Ican’tbelieve
howwellbalanced Iam.”
Areyouworried that itsdarkcontentmight
changepeople’sperceptionofyou?
“It’scertainlynerve-racking tobe revealing somuch
ofyourself, so Iamgirdingmy loins.But I feel it’s
kindofnecessaryand time forme toget that story
out,and from theearly feedback that I’vehad, it
doeshelppeople realise theycanovercome things.”
You’reapassionateScot.Whatdoyoumissabout
thecountry,beingbased inNewYork?
“Imiss the senseofhumourand the spiritof the
place.Fortunately, Igobackand forthbetween
ScotlandandAmerica. I thinkScottishnessplays
abigpart inmebeing forthright, in fact. Idon’t think
wearegoodatholdingbackouropinions.”
Youhavea recipe forstoviesonyourwebsite.
HowoftendoyoumakeScottishdishes?
“Quiteoften,actually. It’sabigScottish thing to
haveabigpotof food, invitepeoplearoundand
have somedrinks.”
AS TOLD TO
PIERRE DE VILLIERS
PHOTO
KEVIN THOMAS GARCIA
05.
HOWTO
BEOUTSPOKEN
ANDGET
AWAYWITH IT,
LIKEALAN
CUMMING
019
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09/10/2014 11:11
“...Is it time for the smartwatch?”
JusthowwellwillApple’snewgadget suit theneedsof
thebusiness traveller?asks
AlexPell
unless you live
undera socialmedia-
resistant stone, itwillhavebeenhardnot to
notice thebuzzabout smartwatches in
recentmonths.TheAppleWatch launched in
Septemberandwill starthittingwristsearly
next year,whileagaggleofAndroid-based
models isalsodue soon.
But,asmuchas I loveagreatgadget, I’m
sceptical–at least for the timebeing–about its
businesscredentials.Don’tgetmewrong.The
premiseofawatch thatworks in tandemwithmy
phone todiscreetlydrawmyattention to, say,a vital
messageduringameeting, isacompelling
proposition.Afterall, few thingsare ruder than
glancingataphone screenwhile someone is
talking.But thencheckingawatchwouldonly
comeaclose second.Theother trouble
is, it’shardenough tocurate
notificationsonaphone screen.
Doing soonawatch seems
wildlyoptimistic.
And thesearemerely
themostobvious
practicalities.While
AndroidWear (yes, this is
themonikerGooglehas
given its software) is
largelybasedaround
fancyalerts thatbuzz
whenever something
arriveson yourhandset,
Applehasbolder
ambitions. Itswatchwill
run fullyfledgedapps
that youcan zoom into
witha swipeof the
screenora twistof its
dial.
Ican see someof these
beinghandy, suchasfitnessapps
orSiri,butmost strikemeashideously
complex toget togripswith– though
business travellerswill like someof the ideasApple ispromising,
suchas theability tounlockahotel roomorpay for itemson the
hoof.There’salsogoing tobeaWatch versionof thePassbookapp,
which storesdigitalboardingpasses.But thebigquestion is:will
theseappsprovehideous tonavigateon sucha smalldevice?
Thereareother issuesaswell, suchas the fact thatmostof
thesedeviceswillneed tobe rechargeddaily. It’s
hardenough to keepaphone juicedupwhen you’re
outandabout– the last thing youwant is your
watchgoingdeadduringaworkingday.
Ofcourse, thereare someattractive features
and Iadmit tobeing slightly seducedby the
promiseofchangingadigitalwatch faceas the
mood takesme.The thing is,nomatterhowmany
stylemavens sayotherwise,noneof these
gadgets strikesmeasbeing ready to live
on thewristofa realperson.Even
theAppleWatch,undoubtedly
themostbeautifullycraftedof
them, still seemsa little too
thick to slipeasilyundera
shirtcuff–and that’sgoing
togetannoyingquickly.
Finally, there’s the
not-so-smallmatterofan
expensivewatchhaving
longbeena statementof
statusamongcorporate
types. Justhow they’ll
feelabout swappinga
glorious,high-precision
chronograph for something
that looksmore likea
fashionaccessory remains
tobe seen.
The smartwatchmaywell
prove tobe the future,but
there iswork tobedone
before itevolves intoan item
that isfit forprime time.Oneday,
yes. Justnotquite yet.
VITALSTATISTICS
APPLEWATCH
£TBA
apple.com
VIEWPOINTS
ON BUSINESS TECH
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087
066
ILLUSTRATION
ROBERT G FRESSON
you’d be hard
pressed todescribe
Barcelona’scurrent
‘it’baras forward
looking.With its
traditional tiles,hanging
curedmeatsandsmall
wooden tables, thedécoratBodega1900
(bodega1900.com)
isfirmly retro, thestyle
evoking thecornershops,or
bodegas,
ofa
centuryago,where thirsty localswouldhead
in theheatof the
afternoon for
aquickbiteanda
glassofsomething
refreshing.This
place isauthentically
oldschool, rightdown to the fact that the
drinksyou’llfindheremostlycontain
somethingyouprobably lastsaw inyour
gran’sboozecabinet…
Bodega1900 isa
vermuteria
,meaning
itspecialises invermouth,serving it the
traditionalway,
degrifo
(‘on tap’),straight
from thebarrel. Itsounds likeaniche
attraction,butrightnow, theCatalancapital
hasgonegagaenmasse for thisherby,
fortifiedwine.Avisit toVermuteriadelTano
(facebook.com/vermuteriatano)
shouldprove
ourpoint.Thisonce-sleepyGràcia
neighbourhoodspothasbeenserving the
spirit foryears,and ifyoupush through the
stickereddoor,you’llsee thatnothing’s
changed: there’snonewmanagementnor
snazzyrevamp,yet
whereyouused to
finda fewsolitary
drinkers, the
crowd isback
and loving the
vermouthwithasideofanchovies.
At theotherendof thespectrum is
Bormuth
(tinyurl.com/nmrxe22)
,next to the
MercatdelBorn,where theyactuallymake
theirownartisanvermouth for thehipster
crowd.PlayingBonoboon thehi-fiand
packed to thesideseverynightwithhot
young things, it looks likeashabby-chic
surfshack from theoutside,but theclassic,
rustic tapasandgreatdrinksare totally in
keepingwith thecity’s long-held tradition.
What’salsonotable is theway these
establishmentsarestarting toserve their
drinks.Youwon’tfind long listsof
ingredientsorprocesseson thecocktail
menu. Instead, it’sallabout returning to
basics,withasmallwell-chosenselection.
Thispared-back ideal iscertainly
catchingon inBarcelona–not leastwith
another favouriteSpanish tipple.Boca
Grande
(bocagrande.cat)
has longbeen
famous for itsbible-sizedginmenu.Today,
it’shoned itsselection to just14,each
representingadifferentflavourorstyle.The
focusonquality,andnotquantity, is thekind
of thingwe’d love toseeelsewhere too,as
it’soneof those rareexamplesofwhen less
ismostcertainlymore.
barchick.com
“Barcelona’sgonegaga forvermouth...”
Last seen in yourgran’sdrinkscabinet, thisherby, fortifiedwine iswhatallcool
Catalansaredrinking rightnow, says
BarChick
“Theyactuallymake their
ownartisanvermouth for the
hipstercrowd”
VIEWPOINTS
ON DRINK
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09/10/2014 12:05
020
04.
IT’S INTHEDETAILS
Foraseeminglysimpledrink,
themethod iscomplex. “Isoftly
whip ina littlecream,stir ina
teaspoonof icingsugaranda
dropofvanillaextract, then
dollop the restof thecream
on top.”
02.
PRESENTATION IS
EVERYTHING
Pronounced
bee-chair-eeeen
,
thename is from thePiedmontese
dialectandmeans ‘smallglass’,
which iswhat itshouldbe
served in,with layersof
espresso,chocolateand
creamwithin.
03.
NOCOCOAPOWDER
Whatseparatesbicerin froma
Starbucksmochawithwhipped
cream?“Thechocolateshouldbe
thebestyoucanafford,”says
chefSkyeGyngell.“AtSpring,we
useValrhonaKalingo,which
is65%cocoa,melted in
abain-marie.”
01.
GETTHELOWDOWN
Bicerinshouldsatisfyeven
themostdemanding
hot-chocolatesnobs. Ithails
fromTurin,anorth-western
Italiancityknown for itscoffee
bars,artisanalchocolate
andAlpineculture.
05.
SIPSLOWLY
TheTurinesewill tellyou,
bicerindeserves tobesavoured.
Orderoneafteryourmealanddon’t
beashamed to linger.
Spring (
springrestaurant.co.uk
)
isnowopenatSomerset
House,London
Forgetpumpkin-spice lattes.Thego-tobeverage thiscold season
is farmore refined.
SkyeGyngell
,headchefofhotnew restaurant
Spring,has the inside trackonTurinese favouritebicerin...
THE
MANUAL
WORDS
JANE LEUNG
PHOTO
STEPHEN MOGEN
ILLUSTRATION
JAMIE PORTCH
the crowds, the squalor,
your
neighbours’ inexplicableMonday-night
parties… living in thecityhas itsproblems.
The solution is ‘urbanacupuncture’,
according toanewbookof the samename
(IslandPress,£12.31).Thisdoesn’t involve
sticking yournoisyneighbourwithapin–
rather, itadvocatesahostof small, simple
improvements tocity life, suchas turning
vacant lots intoparksormakingmore
pedestrian zones.
“Justas in themedicalapproach, this
interventionwill triggerpositivechain
reactions,helping tocureandenhance
thewhole system,” says thebook’sauthor,
JaimeLerner,whoemployed such smallbut
significantchangesasmayorofCuritiba,
Brazil, in the70sand80s,even leading
toaGlobalSustainableCityAward.So,
whilehismethodsmightnotmake your
neighbourpipedown, theymight justmake
citiesmorepositiveplaces tobe.
02.
ASHORTGUIDE
TO
THISWINTER’S
HOTTESTDRINK
03.
HOWTO
HEALA
SICKCITY
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09/10/2014 11:10
09.
HOWTOSEEBARRACUDA,
JACKFISH,SNAPPER
AND
MAYBEEVENAREEFSHARK
WRECK IT
“Ifpossible,doawreckdive.
CedarPride, in theGulf
ofAqaba–whichcanbe
accessed fromTelAviv– is
amazing. It’sacargo-vessel
wreck from the80s thathas
over30 yearsofcoralgrowth
and is rich inmarine life.”
FINDTHERIGHTSPOT
“Inwinter, it’snice togowhere
it’shot.Oneofmy top sites is
theSharkandYolandaReef in
SharmelSheikh,where you
can seebarracuda, jackfish,
snapperandeven reef sharks.”
JUSTDO IT
“If youhaven’tdivedbefore,
then it’s time you tried. It’s
awonderful feeling tobe
immersed inanewworld.
Youalsoget to seecreatures
as incredibleasdolphins (off
SharmelSheikh)andwhale
sharks (nearHurghada) in
theirnaturalhabitat.”
TAKETHELOWSBEFORE
THEHIGHS
“It’sbest tobook yourdive
for themiddleof your trip,
as itcanbedangerous tofly
straightafterbecauseof the
residualnitrogen in yourbody.
You shouldwaitaminimumof
12hours, though theofficial
advice is towait24.”
DRINKTHERIGHTFLUIDS
“It’s temptingonholiday,but
don’tdrinkbeforediving. I’ve
hadgroups turnup swigging
beerwhowe’vehad to turn
away. If youdivewithalcohol
in yourblood, you’remore
susceptible todecompression
sickness–which, trustme,
isn’tworth thatbooze.”
HEALTHCHECK
“Getagoodnight’s sleep
beforeadiveand if you’renot
feelingwell–especially if
congested–don’tdo it.You
won’thaveasgooda timeand
itcanbe veryuncomfortable.”
TRAVELLER TIPS
FACTFILE
NAME
JennyBurford
AGE
28
FROM
Hertfordshire,UK
HASWORKED IN
Egypt,
TelAviv, Jordan,Thailand
OCCUPATION
Diving instructor
THE
MANUAL
Discover somegreatdive spotswhileenjoying
the sunshine thiswinter, says this
memberof theget-up-and-gogeneration
024
AS TOLD TO
VICKY LANE
PHOTO
JON ENOCH
WITH THANKS TO
LONDONSCHOOLOFDIVING.COM
EJ155_024_Genej lgS.indd 024
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