THEGLOBETROTTER
LORENZO COGO
“
My idea is for people to have fun with
this salad, not just eat it,” says Cogo
of his dish, which must be shaken
vigorously before eating. Made with
local leaves, pumpkin seeds and
rye-bread croutons, among other
things, and served with a crisp white
Sauvignon, the salad contains a ball
of white chocolate which explodes
when shaken to release the rhubarb
vinaigrette inside.
Moritz Craffonara, proprietor of
the Club Moritzino hut (moritzino.it), is
delighted. “It’s perfect for a place like
this, where there’s a perennial party
atmosphere. The resident DJ gets
going at 2.30pm every afternoon and
people start dancing.” Club Moritzino
is known for its fresh fish dishes
and nights of carousing, after which
people either ski down or take a lift in
one of the Moritzino snowcats.
“
Unfortunately, I can’t stay,” says
26-
year-old, newly Michelin-starred
Cogo. “I’ve got to get back to my
restaurant.” After several years of
globetrotting apprenticeships with
prestigious chefs from Japan to Spain,
the Italian opened his own restaurant,
El Coq (elcoq.com), in Veneto 21
months ago. “Mine is instinctive
cuisine – very, very different from
the dishes my father makes at his
trattoria,” he says. “I focus on my
instincts and create what I feel.”
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