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FEATURES
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LISBON
1974
On 25 April 1974, a
military-led coup gives
the country’s colonies
independence and
Portugal becomes
a parliamentary
democracy.
1998
Lisbon stages Expo
’98, the last World’s
Fair of the millennium,
leading to the building
of an entirely new
neighbourhood called
Parque das Nações.
2004
The city co-hosts the
European Football
Championships, which
involves building two
new stadiums. Portugal
reaches the finals, but
loses to Greece.
2007
The Treaty of Lisbon,
which lays down new
guidelines for the
governance of the
European Union, is
signed in Belém on
13 December.
1926
Amilitary coup d’état in
Lisbon overthrows the
wobbling Portuguese
First Republic, starting
the longest dictatorial
regime in Europe. It
lasts for 48 years.
L I S B O N
BELÉM
BAIRRO ALTO
THE BAIXA
ALFAMA
PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES
N
1km
GETTING
AROUND
MUSICAL HERITAGE
Lisbonmay be fairly compact, but it
is hilly. To avoid toomuch climbing,
use the excellent network of metros,
buses and trams. Aone-day travel
card costs €4.50 from any station.
BELÉM
An area that escaped the 1755
earthquake. Among its many jewels
is the gothic Jerónimos Monastery
(
mosteirojeronimos.pt
) and the Belém
Cultural Centre (
ccb.pt
), with its
famed Berardomodern art collection.
BAIRRO ALTO
A 17th-century grid of narrow streets
that’s now one of the most vibrant
centres for both gay and straight
nightlife in the city. It has loads of bars,
restaurants, boutiques and a seriously
lively street scene.
ALFAMA
Dominated by St George’s Castle,
and with a medieval street plan, this
working-class neighbourhood still has
a strong whiff of the old Lisbon.
THE BAIXA
Located between the stunning
waterfront square of Praça do Comércio
and the Rossio, Lisbon’s downtown
area was built in the late 18th century
and is the city’s main shopping district.
PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES
Once an industrial wasteland, this
riverfront area has been transformed: it
nowboasts theOceanarium(
oceanario.
pt
) and a casino (
casinolisboa.pt
), plus
many restaurants and shops.
WORDS JONATHANWEIGHTMAN | PHOTO ©ALAMY | MAP ILLUSTRATION © JASON PICKERSGILL/ACUTEGRAPHICS.CO.UK
LISBON HAS ITS
very own version of
the blues. Called
fado
, whichmeans
fate, these often-tragic musical
laments are about love, loss and
longing. Its exact roots are unknown,
but fado is believed to have existed in
its present form since the early 19th
century. Traditionally performed by
a singer and twomusicians, one on a
10-string Portuguese guitar, the other
on a six-string Spanish guitar, fado
achieved international fame in the
1950s and 60s with the great Amália
Rodrigues. Despite falling out of favour
after the 1974 revolution, it has made
a triumphant comeback: the 2007
film
Fados,
directed by Carlos Saura,
celebrated the music, while last year it
was even added to the UNESCOWorld
Heritage List. There are many places
to hear the music around Lisbon, from
impromptu amateur performances in
neighbourhood bars, including Tasca
do Jaime (
91 Rua da Graça; tel: +351
21 888 1560
), to swishy professional
joints, such as Senhor Vinho (
18 Rua
do Meio à Lapa; tel: +351 21 397 2681
).