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TRAVELLER
KEFALONIA
Platia Ammos
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38° 12’ 55’’ N / 20° 21’ 15’’ E
A
Though it competes withMyrtos and Petani for the
title of best beach on Kef’s west coast, Platia Ammos
succeeds in getting the least attention. Since the precarious
path down themountainside collapsed a few years ago, only
the brave venture here on foot: hence, you stand a pretty
good chance of having the place to yourself. It’s an easy
swim to the shore through fizzing but fiercely clear water
and the beach is a jewel box of gobstopper-coloured pebbles
that compete to weigh down your trunks on the swimback.
Vardiani Island
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38° 08’ 05” N / 20° 25’ 25” E
B
A deserted island at the entrance to the channel
between Lixouri and Argostoli, Vardiani has a peculiar
MaryCeleste
feel about it. The Orthodox church is gradually
falling to ruin, but its icons remain dusted and candles seem
to bemagically replenished by unseen hands. There’s also
the remains of a temple to Apollo, but more intriguing to
explore is an abandoned café, with prices chalked up in
drachmas. Ideal for would-be Robinson Crusoes.
Klismata
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38° 05’ 47” N / 20° 32’ 48” E
C
More than half-a-dozen people at this tiny cove,
hidden behind a whale-like rock, constitute a serious
crowd and if you wander into an impromptu beach
barbecue, you’ll certainly be invited. Even just watching the
sun set at the foot of themyrtle and sage-covered
mountains, fromamong themany black boulders on the sea
front, makes for a trulymemorable stop-off.
Spartia
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38° 06 11 N / 20° 34’ 31” E
D
A lovely sandy beach known only to locals and lost
Italians, Spartia has a lot going for it. There’s a very
civilised restaurant, Waterway, run by a Greek Californian
who cooks up some of the best fresh fish on the island
(caught that morning). Ego-deflating entertainment is
provided by local teenagers, who tombstone from the rocky
promontory, and a swimaround the rocks reveals a
handkerchief-sized beach in a tiny cavern. Youmight even
find yourself swimming with Spartia’s resident turtle.
Skala
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38° 04’ 15” N / 20° 48’ 00’’ E
E
With seemingly unlimited expanses of blisteringly
white beach, Skala is also backed by surprisingly
upscale hotel-cafés (imagine a Greek version of Miami
Beach). While the coast here lacks drama, you can rent
anything that floats fromDolphin Ski Club on the beach
(tel: +30 2671 083 066
). All the hotels along the front offer
poolside snacks: try Pikiona (
pikiona.gr
) or Anassa
(
anassahotel.gr
). For more substantial (and economical)
eating, go into the town: Apostolis and The Old Village are
favourite restaurants.
Agia Efimia
//
38° 18’ 10” N / 20° 36” 00 E
F
The village of Agia Efimia has a breezy, amiable vibe
that sets it apart. The deep, sheltered harbour, fishing
port and long-established dive school mean that tourism’s