foranyonedeservingofpunishment.
Originally intended as a garrison for 10,000 to 15,000,
there are bake ovens and an ingeniously engineeredwa-
ter cistern ready to support amilitary force.Wilfredalso
points to a protruding rock, indicating the Citadelle’s
tenaciousholdon the topof themountain. Itremindsme
of theHaitians I knowwhoendure—andoften innovate
—byholdingon in the faceofmisfortune.
Wehead for theparapets. Built toprovidea360-degree
outlook for defense, theynowdraw international visitors
withcamerasattheready.Atopanedificemanysourcesdub
theEighthWonder of theWorld, some say the viewwest
extends toCuba.
Infairytalesandfiction,thesunwouldnowbreakthrough,
revealingtheAtlanticOceanstraightaheadandCap-Haïtien
in sight.However, this is the realworld, and clouds cling
to thehillsaroundme. I snatcha slightlyobscuredpeekat
anotherfort,SitedesRamiers.I’msorrythisisnotthedayfor
abucket-listpanorama,butmytakeaway iswhatIcamefor:
adeeperconnectiontoanationrisingdespiteacomplicated
historywithpeoplewhohave the strengthandpatience to
prevailevenonanarduouspath.Wilfredconcludesourvisit
saying, “Until youhavebeen to theCitadelle, youhavenot
been toHaiti.”
I smile inagreement. Fornewcomers or oldhands like
me,Haitihasmuch to teachus.
I’llcomebacktotheCitadelleLaferrière.Ihope it’ssoon.
Onasunnyday.
Curiosityabout cultureandnaturehas lured
BARBARAWYSOCKI
to
everycontinent.Haiti stampsherpassportmore thananyothernation.
A former librarian, Barbaraalsowritesaboutartandchildren’s literature.
82
JUNE2015
AMERICANWAY
The ruinsofPalaisSansSouci
MARVINDELCID/GETTY IMAGES/MOMENTRM
