TaínoandArawakpeople lived. These
are thepeoplewhonamed their land
Ayiti, meaning mountainous land.
Though theSpanishnamed this island
HispaniolaandtheFrenchcalledtheir
colonySaintDominigue, wenow call
themountainouswesternportion of
thisCaribbean isleHaiti. TheMusée
deGuahaba, built bymissionarydoc-
torWilliamHodgesandmaintainedby
themuseum’s caretaker, PierreAndre
Genty, tracesthismultilayeredhistory
withartifacts, dioramas,mapsandart.
Mr.Gentygivesmearareglimpse into
thecomplexdepthofhishomeland.
danjosephandtheguidesarrive,
bringingdryskies.Dwarfedbythestone
walls,WilfredandJacklinJean leadme
past oneof the threeoriginal powder
magazines intended to preserve the
foundling Haitian nation. Pyramid
stacksof cannonballswaitwhere they
willneverbeused.Thesefortifications
werebrought herebetween 1805 and
1820. TheFrench forts, I’m told, lined
the coast to protect the plantations,
including the sugar-caneplantations
that made this their richest colony.
The Citadelle is one in a series of
mountain-high lookouts established
as part of then-GeneralHenri Chris-
tophe’s strategy toprotect his coun-
try froma fearedreturnofNapoleon’s
forcesand invasionbyopposition lead-
ers from thenewnation’s south. Ac-
cording toWilfred,HenriChristophe
enlistedabout20,000peopletocreate
thesedefensivebases.
“Does thatmean thatalmostevery-
one here in theNorthhas ancestors
whohelpedbuildtheCitadelle?”Iask.
WilfredandJacklinJeannodyes.No
wonder they’rewilling to toil uphere
intherain.Asstakeholders inaworld-
classsite, theywant theoutsideworld
toexperience itsmagnificence.
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