32 AMERICANWAY
DECEMBER 1 2008
R O M E
CuldESAC
Piazzadi Pasquino, 73
011-39-06-688-01094
Abrightly lit spacewith tiledwalls, it’snear
PiazzaNavona and looks not unlike apizza
parlor inManhattan.Of all the enoteche in
Rome, itoffersoneof themost extensive se-
lections of local wines fromLazio, with 29
redsand25whitesby thebottle, plusanex-
cellent localCesanesedelPiglioby theglass.
Pair one with the charcuterie plate, which
featuresmeats and cheeses fromLazio.
ENotECA IlGoCCEtto
ViadeiBanchiVecchi, 14
011-39-06-686-4268
It’s a teeny wine bar that manages to be
ultracasual even while serving its wines in
Riedel stemware.
INVINoVERItAS
ViaGaribaldi, 2/A
011-39-06-583-32012
Comehere foracomfortablebasementwine
bar on the northern edge of Trastevere, not
far from the Vatican. Like many Roman
bars, it offers excellent, free food during
happy hour. Pair the food with a glass of
Bonarda, a lightly sparkling red.
lAVECChIABottEGAdElVINo
Viadi SantaMariadel Pianto, 9a/11
011-39-06-681-92-210
Located in possibly the quietest spot in
Rome (a piazza in a Jewish neighborhood
that is mercifully devoid of Vespa and car
traffic), this “old shop” has been here for
threedecades. Ithasa large local following;
people come for the huge selection, which
includesanumberofwines from thenorth-
eastern regionof Friuli-VeneziaGiulia.
ENotECA IlPICColo
ViadelGovernoVecchio, 74
011-39-06-688-01746
Featuringoneof themost interestingsmall-
platemenus of anywine bar in the tourist-
friendlyCentro Storico, this intimate space
has great people-watching from its few
outdoor tables as well as an unusual wine
selectionby theglass— includingAloisLa-
geder’s Cor Römigberg, a Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon from Italy’sAltoAdige region.
othERRoMANWINEBARS
WoRthAVISIt
10 euros, or about $14. I ordered this not
off apreciouswinemenubut from a chalk-
board. And though the wine was served to
me in an oversize wide-mouthed glass, the
proper stemware for this style of wine, the
server plopped it down in front of me as if
itwere a bottle ofMillerHighLife.He also
tossedaplateof free foods—nuts and sun-
dried tomatoes — on the table because, I
assume, winemust gowith food. It was all
veryproper, kindof expensive, andyet com-
pletelyunfussy. Itwas all veryRoman. Very
Italian. Lynchputs it best: “You couldhave
a 15-year-old girl serve you a bottle of wine
in Italy, and it feelsmorenatural than some
sommelier in New York,” he says. “It’s just
less fraught. And it’s very endearing.”
JoSEPhGuINto
organizes his Italianwine collection on a rack
in descending geographic order. Sadly, the rack is not shaped
like aboot.
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