T
26 AMERICANWAY
DECEMBER 1 2008
PHOTOGRAPHBYMARIOMAZZIOL
R O M E
HailVino
The best Italianwines aren’t found
on a hillside inTuscany or on apla-
teau inPiedmont. They’re found in
Rome.
By JosephGuinto
TWoHouRsAfTERsuNsET
, somewherenear theeast
bankof theTiber river, inone of awarrenof look-alike
alleyways stuffed so full of tinycarsandmotorbikes that
passersbynearlyhave to climbover them, ithas justbe-
come clear: I have no ideawhere I am. None.Well, I’m
inRome; thatmuch I know. And I’m looking for wine
—Sicilianwine, tobeexact, tobeserved tomeataSicil-
ian restaurant that is onVia di Panico. But I’m not on
Viadi Panico. I’monViadeiBanchiVecchi. Possibly.
Either way, finding that nice bottle of SicilianGrillo
orNerod’Avola seems out of the question. So I give up
trying to read the street signs—or, rather, thehard-to-
spot engravings on the sides of buildings that pass for
street signs in the Eternal City. Instead, I leave it up to
thegods, theghostsofoenophilesofold, ormaybe justa
randomVespa rider todeterminemy course.And that’s
how, eventually, I arrive at the double doorway of Via
dei Balestrari, 12. It is the address of awine bar called
L’Angolo Divino (the Divine Corner). That L’Angolo
EnotecaFerrara
VinAllegro
EnotecaTrastevere
