22 AMERICANWAY
NOVEMBER 1 2007
C H OW D OWN
Try It—You’llLike It
Eighteenth-centuryFrenchgourmandJeanAnthelmeBrillat-Savarinknew
whathewas talkingaboutwhenhe said, “Tellmewhat kindof foodyoueat, and Iwill tell youwhat kindofmanyouare.”Want to
comprehendanewculture?Chewanddigest it!We’vepickedeight foods that epitomize theirenvirons. Savor themon-sitewhen
you’re in thesecities. —B.H.
THEDETAIlS
SuShI INTokYo
Sushizanmai
10-6Tsukiji 4Chuo-ku
011-81-3-5148-3737
WIENERSChNITzEl INVIENNA
Figlmüller
Wollzeile number 5
011-43-1-512-61-77
SMoRREbRod INCopENhAgEN
TheRoyal Cafe
6Amegertorv, Copenhagen
011-45-3814-9527
WARMChoColATECREpES INpARIS
Various vendors
Visitwww.franceguide.com formore
information
CARCIoFIAllAgIudIA INRoME
piperno
Monte deCenci, 9
011-39-06-6880-6629
MolEpoblANo INpuEblA,MExICo
FondadeSantaClara
3Poniente920. Col. Centro, C.P.72000
011-52-222-246-1919
poRkSpARERIbS INkANSASCITY
oklahomaJoe’s
3002West 47thAvenue
(913) 722-3366
MuFFulETTASANdWICh
INNEWoRlEANS
Central grocery
923Decatur Street
(504) 523-1620
Tokyo
Surprise— it’s
sushi
!
Okay, you’re not sur-
prised. But did you
know that one of the
best times to eat it is in
themorning?When in
Japan, trade your ce-
real bowl for a
seto
of
sushi at Sushizanmai,
locateddown an alley
amid theTsukiji Fish
Market.
Vienna
You can’twaltz out
of this citywithout
gobbling up a pounded-
thin, lightly fried
Wiener schnitzel
. Try
the gargantuan ones
at rustic Figlmüller;
they’re so immense,
they cover the entire
plate, sometimes even
hanging over the edge.
Copenhagen
It figures that people in
a city famous for its ar-
chitecturewould nibble
on a structural marvel
like the ubiquitous and
multilayered
smor-
rebrod
. These storied
open-faced sandwiches
have a foundation of
brown bread and a
myriad of toppings. Try
the contemporary ver-
sions (called smushi) at
theRoyal Cafe.
Paris
We loveMichelin-
starredmarathon
meals, but Parisian
street fare entices us
evenmore. For the ulti-
mate thrill, order
warm
chocolate crepes
toppedwith a dollop of
whipped cream from
the vendors in Luxem-
bourgPark or adjacent
to theEiffel Tower, by
themerry-go-round.
Puebla,
Mexico
Known for its colonial
architecture andTala-
vera pottery, Puebla is
also recognized as the
birthplace of themys-
terious
mole poblano
.
Marvel at themany
ingredients that go into
this thick, spicy sauce
(including four kinds of
chiles, plus chocolate,
seeds, nuts, cinnamon,
andmore) at legendary
Fonda deSantaClara.
Kansas City
Thismidwestern locale
is touted for its dry-
rubbedmeat and spicy,
tongue-stingingbarbe-
cue sauce. But the
pork
spareribs
, so tender
that they fall from the
bone, steal the show.
Try a slab— or two
— at Oklahoma Joe’s.
NewOrleans
For 100-plus years, the
people of NewOrleans
have enjoyed the
muf-
fuletta sandwich
at
Central Grocery. Itali-
anate, it boasts pro-
volone, Genoa salami,
cappicola ham, and the
house signature olive
salad (green olives,
capers, pimientos, and
more) on crusty round
slices of bread.
Rome
Run to historicPiperno,
on a quiet piazza in the
old JewishQuarter.
Once you’re there, yield
to the ancient sensory
delights of
carciofi alla
giudia
—flattened,
fried artichokes.
ILLUSTRATIONSBYSAMUELSOLOMON
